Overweight tiller best approach?

[Badger]

I don't do videos.

There is info. on my site, however and in several articles I've written.

http://traditionalarchery101.com

But this not my first ballroom dance so you can be sure I've used this method on my bows to help me determine when the stave is ready to be strung..

Just trying  to help those just getting started from making the same mistakes I did.

How slack the string is not important. I've said that through out my bow making life and a couple of times above.

Jawge

  George, you say how slack the string is does not make a difference. With your method it is critical. Because you are giving it 10" of pull. Every 1" of slack in your string will make about a 3# difference. If you ignore how far you are actually pulling the bow and just take it to whatever draw length you are looking at on your tiller tree then the slack makes no difference. You can check the weight on your bow at any stage you want simply by checking it the same way you check a braced bow., It does not make much difference if it is braced or not. I can't think of anything that could possibly be easier and less confusing.

[George Tsoukalas]

Steve, I said previously in this thread that I pull the t string down to remove slack, mark it, and measure down 10" from there and proceed.

All this method does is determine if the stave is ready to be strung...bending well and around 15# over final target weight.

So with your method how far over final draw weight is your stave before you string it? It should be no more that 20# over.
 
Jawge

[Badger]

George my method just determines the current weight of your bow in progress. I do it from start to finish every time it goes on the tiller tree. I can brace it whenever I choose which is usually between 10 and 15# over weight. If I decide to brace it when I hit target weight at 23" that will put me over about 15#. The most common question new bow makers have is they don't know how strong their bow is, The easiest way to find out is to simply put it on your tiller tree and measure it the same way you would a braced bow. It is more than accurate enough and by far the most accurate way I know of. It cannot get any simpler. You don't need to make allowances for anything. Just pull it down and look at the weight. You ignore how far the limbs are moving and just look at the length of the draw.

[George Tsoukalas]

Good, Steve. I am glad it works for you.
My method does the same thing but makes how the stave bends is important too.
A good tiller starts right from the outset.
It is an extension of floor tillering.
Yes, new bowyers don't know when to go to the short string which is why I developed this method.
Jawge

[Badger]

  George my method has nothing to do with tillering, or anything else. It serves one purpose it tells you what the weight of the bow is. You can use the long string for tillering if you choose to but it is nice to know exactly where you are in the process. That is all it does is tell you what weight your bow is at whatever distance you choose to measure it. When my bows hit target weight at 23 or 24" That is where I usually choose to brace them but you can do whatever a person chooses to. We have more control over the process when we know the weight.

[George Tsoukalas]

Knowing the weight of the stave before stringing is crucial, Steve.
Jawge

[Badger]

 I agree George, thats what my method does. I don't know why this is going past you?? I have explained it more than a dozen times. You check the weight with a loose string before stringing. You know what the weight is all through the build. You only have to remember one thing, that is the bow does not have to be braced to check the weight, thats all you need to remember. The builder can do whatever he wants with that information.

[George Tsoukalas]

Steve, I never said it was past me. I am glad you like your method.

Likewise, I just don't understand why you don't understand mine and see its utility.

That's ok but I do assure you I am not passing on bad info.

I have used this method since the mid 90s with much success.

So be it.

Jawge

[bradsmith2010]

arent you guys talking about the same thng but something getting lost in translation

[willie]

The easiest way to find out is to simply put it on your tiller tree and measure it the same way you would a braced bow. ....It is more than accurate..... It cannot get any simpler.......

Just pull it down and look at the weight. You ignore how far the limbs are moving and just look at the length of the draw.

Steve,

help us out with a hypothetical example  or maybe a sketch

for example, a bow you are tillering and hope to finish at 50# at 28". during tillering,

1. if I pull 1#,  the nock in the tillering string measures 5" below the handle   

2. if I pull 50#, the nock in the tillering string moves down 10" to a point 15" below the handle

when do you check it next?  when do you stop tillering?

[Badger]

   Willie, ignore how loose your string is as long as it is not over about 10" I prefer 5" or 6". Anyway in the case you gave the bow would be about 50# at 15". And it would measure very close to that if it were braced. I am not using any method I am just reading it the same way I would a braced bow. I use weight instead of the profile of the bow to monitor set so I like to know what it is all the time.

[willie]

i edited the question as you replied.

When my bows hit target weight at 23 or 24"

so as long as you stop and brace at about 23/24", it matters little whether you started with 3" droop, or 8" droop

[Badger]

   Yes, but I want to know more about the weight as I build also.

[willie]

seems pretty simple to get to 23/24.   what additional info do you look for?

[Badger]

seems pretty simple to get to 23/24.   what additional info do you look for?

   While I am building I set a new benchmark every time I take wood off. And then after drawing to the new length I look for any drop in weight at my last benchmark that might indicate early stages of set.