Tiller check please!

[bownarra]

Another thing you can go off is how it shoots. It is possible to feel if one limb is strong relative to the other. If it is way off the bow will tilt/pivot in the hand with the stronger limb being the one 'coming back'. If the limb strength is off just a little it will have a bit of a thump, if the tiller is off it is more shocky...very hard to describe this accurately as it is a feel thing. Once tiller shape and limb strength are perfect it will be 'dead in the hand'.
Of course watching any set and its position when it shows up is the woods way of talking to you. An easy way to keep track is to trace the backs side profile onto your tillering board or something before it has ever been bent. Then during tillering periodically hold the bow up to its original profile and see where it has changed. You want to follow the TBB 'mantra' of no set in the inner limbs, a little mid-limb and the rest out towards the tips. Set like this should be your goal as it indicates optimal wood strain/tiller.
These things are valuable tools when you get odd shaped limbs, one deflex/one reflexed etc...
The wood always talks to you along the way....but do you understand the language?!?! 

[Eric Krewson]

I agree on the unstrung uneven profile, lots of reflex in the left limb and almost none in the right.

I would take it back to the bending form you used and match the right limb to the left then start over with your tillering.

[Deerhunter21]

Eric, I would if I had a bending form. This is all natural.

I’m sure I can get this to bend right without it being perfectly straight. I feel like it’s pretty close already.

this is for a trade too and im super low on staves, so i would really like it to work out if it can.

[Deerhunter21]

I raised the brace height to 6”

What’s bugging me is I can see there is something wrong with the left limb, but I don’t know how to go about dealing with it.

I took some off the outer left and I’ll take some off of the right soon.

[Eric Krewson]

You don't have to have a form, use a vise. Heat the left limb and tweak it in your vise with jaws loose and not clamped down on the limb. I do this often with static tips that wander off to the side and don't align with the string groove. I put the heated tip in the vise, give it a quick sideways push and check my progress, It takes several tweaks but I can get the alignment perfect this way. I usually take out any propeller in the tip as well as alignment that happened when I initially bent the static recurve.

In your case you need to work up and down the limb with little thrusts, hot wood bends really easily and doesn't need to cool in a form to hold the bend. Let you limb cool before you move to another position on the limb and only heat that place.

Your other option is to put your gizmo(assuming you have one) adjusted to the weak spot out from your fade on the right limb and remove wood from the left after you mark it with gizmo.

I don't recommend this method because you will end up with a kiddie bow after matching the limbs because they are so different.

[superdav95]

Deer hunter.  Just had another thought about this bow and figured I should share.   All of the suggestions are valid and it’s hard to know sometimes which direction to go based on folks looking at a few pictures.  The thought I had as another option is to do another mild heat treatment on that right limb.  Especially on the inners.  It may stiffen things up for ya and balance out the bow.  I recently had to do this on a hickory build where one limb took to the first round of heat treatment better then the other.  Not sure if you’ve already done a heat treatment yet but it may solve it.  Just another thing to consider. 

Cheers. 

Dave

[Deerhunter21]

Pretty sure I got it tillered out to my likings for now! Minimal hand shock, and the set it’s taking is pretty even throughout and has mostly stopped now! Thanks for all the help guys!