Hickory board bow #2

[chasonhayes]

After listening to comments the new dimensions are 69 1/5" tip to tip for nock to nock length of 68"
2" width for 1/5 length then taper to 1/2" at tip
5/8" thick.
The riser is 8" long, 2" wide, 1 1/4" high

[chasonhayes]

Here is initial tiller with stringer
The riser popped off - It was well glued but you can see flex in the handle area.
I suppose I should start with a 1" thick piece and thin out the limbs leaving the handle area built up
What should I do with this bow?

[RyanY]

Your  bow at that length will likely be closer to 1/2” or even 3/8” thick once finished. 2” wide can be quite heavy in hickory so depending on draw weight you could end up with fairly thin limbs. Your limbs will also have some taper from the fades to the end of your parallel section and then a very mild taper from there to the tips. 5/8” was too thick to start. Also need to floor tiller it. Must have really yanked on it to have it fail so quickly and bend that far.

[aznboi3644]

Read up on how to tiller. You are just making a bow shaped object and yanking really hard on it

[Don W]

IMO, 2" is to wide for hickory unless it's a very heavy draw weight. Read up on tillering and the mass principal.

There is also nothing requiring a stiff handle. I like to add some leather and feel the bend. It's just another design

I have some actually dimensions that may help, https://www.diy.timetestedtools.net/category/archery-equipment/wood-bow-making/bow-builds-with-dimensions/

[RyanY]

2” isn’t too wide as width determines draw weight. A wider bow might be over-built but that’s not causing this issue.

[Don W]

2” isn’t too wide as width determines draw weight. A wider bow might be over-built but that’s not causing this issue.

I fixed it

[AndrewS]

I think, with no thickness taper, you always will end with a pop off handle.

The bending for such a bow is most bending mid limb (green), little bending on the inner parts from the fade out to mid limb (yellow), very little bending in the outer parts (yellow) and no bending at the last 4" of the limbs (red), and also no bending at the handle section (including the fade outs) (red).

[AndrewS]

and the thickness taper will be minimum 1/8 inch from right behind the fade outs to the tips on every limb.

[chasonhayes]

Don W. I read your page and I see your width from the widest part is 1.42" tapering to .87" (7" from the tip) and your thickness is from .57" to .4" or 9/16" to 3/8"
My bow is wider and thicker. why is it so bendy? Is it too moist? I do not have a hot box

[chasonhayes]

AndrewS thanks for the suggestions.

[Don W]

Don W. I read your page and I see your width from the widest part is 1.42" tapering to .87" (7" from the tip) and your thickness is from .57" to .4" or 9/16" to 3/8"
My bow is wider and thicker. why is it so bendy? Is it too moist? I do not have a hot box

Moisture is extremely important, especially in hickory. Search this site and read up on mass principle. I should start adding weights for my bows, that will also help. I'm not an expert and I have a lot to learn, but once I started paying attention to the mass principle, my bows got better. My current goal is get them more efficient. I can get slightly above average fairly consistently now, but you should start with understanding it. Don't take it to literally, but follow the principal.

[RyanY]

Once the handle popped off it becomes a bendy handle bow. At that length 5/8” is quite thin. Should be closer to 7/8”-1” to stay remotely rigid with such thick limbs.

[Don W]

Once the handle popped off it becomes a bendy handle bow. At that length 5/8” is quite thin. Should be closer to 7/8”-1” to stay remotely rigid with such thick limbs.

i agree.

[gutpile]

you need to leave the handle area raised where you glue on handle. the fade should be higher than the belly or it will pop off everytime. have your belly side slightly lower at start of working limb than handle area and till from there..... gut