Quick loads for a round ball shooter

[BowEd]

Here's an easy way to make quick loads for a round ball shooter.I'm all about traveling efficiently with the basics.Very handy.It's very quick to reload also.A few times while hunting does I've shot the doe.The yearling does'nt run very far.I quickly reload.Shoot the yearling too.Done this a couple of times hunting deer.
The set up is actually an idea I seen used going to civil war reenactments.As it was done during the civil war.
My loads don't need to be much.60 to 80 grains.My gun at least shoots spot on out to 100 yards and I rarely need to shoot at one that far away.It's usually 50 yards or closer.The ball still flies through the deer easily.
First find a dowel close to the circumference of your ball.Then cut a square of regular old typing paper a good 6" long and wide enough to go around the dowel with a little overlap to be glued into a tube.

Tie off the end with a cotton string.

Insert your ball and tie off above the ball too with a good knot.

Dip your ball into your lube.

Insert your measured powder into tube above ball.

Tape it closed with masking tape.

Mark on it the amount of powder in quick load.I think the previous 3 loads had a little more bees wax in the lube.

Your good to go.When second shot is needed simply tear masking tape off.Pour powder down barrel.Insert ball.Short start it.Your paper is your lubed patch.You can tear off excess paper too but it won't make any difference really.It's just as accurate as using a pillow tick patch.I basically only need my short starter/capper/and quick load for a quick second shot.

[Eric Krewson]

I use ball boards and little plastic screw top bottles that hold about 100 gr of powder. The only time I get a second shot with my flintlock is when I make a poor hit with the first shot and have to run the deer down to finish it off.

This ball board has been loaded for a couple of years, injuries and surgeries have kept me from getting to the woods, new lubed patches will be needed if I can get to the woods.

[BowEd]

Yes I've seen those.
The way I've shown is cheaper/faster to load/and easier to carry around.
When I'm deer hunting like I said all I need to carry with me is my capper around my neck.Short starter and quick loads in my pocket.
It's very rare that I need to use them though.Running after deer usually makes things worse.The quick loads almost keep forever after being made.No relubing required.
I've hunted both ways with the powder horn and pouch and with the quick loads alone.
When hunting with the hunting pouch and powder horn I like the straps to be high and tight and still manageable to load easily.
Makes for it easier to get around through all the brush sometimes and when dragging the deer out too.
Completely eliminated using the paper patch quick loads.

[Stoker]

I've used the way Eric does it. Ed your way is interesting. I'll have to try it. Couple quick backups is not a bad thing.
Thanks Leroy.

[BowEd]

It's not only interesting it is authentic and more conformed to this site.I'm sure in it's day the wooden plugs part was used.Except for the plastic tube holding the gunpowder.....ha ha.When in rendezvous camp no plastic is allowed in camp to be an authentic fur trade era 1820 to 1840 camp.It's the rules.
I find it ironic for the sake of being primitive using a flint lock and then use plastic as part of his accoutraments.
This paper patch way does'nt cost a thing.More authentic.Less trouble to make.Handier and quicker to use.Shoots just as well.

[Eric Krewson]

It is good that people carry on the old ways but it is not for all of us. We all find our own niche in the sport, mine is making my guns period correct, my five builds have been flintlocks, I did one TC kit that my dad had but never put together. I made one Kibler rifle but probably won't make another, not enough work in the build to get the kind of satisfaction (and frustration) that I get from a plank build, I need that sense of accomplishment in the niche I have settled into.

Do you build your guns Ed, I imagine that you do but I can't remember.

[BowEd]

I get it about the satisfaction of building things.It's a good thing and enjoy it myself.I've built many other primtive weapons and other articles besides muzzle loaders beyond the difficulty of anything you've shown.People can choose and push the limits to their own liking.It's all about individualism and beautiful.
This paticular site is not for all of us out there and the only correct thing you responded about.The "us" as you refer to will have to find  their own niche on other sites if it is'nt primitive and by the sites rules.On this site it's just for the ones that enjoy the primitive aspect of it.Owning/handling/and showing weapons and it's accoutraments whether it is made by their own hands or not.This is the point I made.Trying to shift the subject does not make my point go away.
Although this paticular site is not specific about accoutraments but should be.As there is no synthetic working parts allowed on a bow.I suppose if this site allows plastic nocks on wooden arrows it should allow a plastic gun powder holder.
The gun I showed inlays of furniture were not up to my liking.Neither was the barrel and front site.I refitted and finished everything on this paticular gun.Not that big of a deal in my mind.Scroll work on lock was done by a friend.
It's good you like making period correct guns and showing it's process.I personally know it's rewarding.It might inspire others to do the same, but showing 20th. century accoutraments [plastic] with it is not.Whether you respect that point is up to you.
Of all the hobbies I've pursued buckskinning is one that has influenced me as much as any of them getting ideas from it making articles and weapons.I've seen many other exquisitely made gun makers' guns at rendezvous but primitive archery is not their thing.As a credit to them they stay in their own lane and respect the format.

[Gimlis Ghost]

Has anyone tried the Magicians flash paper for this purpose, or would it pose a safety hazard?

[Hawkdancer]

Good information, Ed.  Think I will try to make up some.  Some times, we get a bit lazy in adhering to primitive rules, depending on
the situation.

Gimli, never heard of the flash paper before!  Is it percussive, and what is the composition?  Not sure Would want to try pushing it down the barrel if it is more sensitive than black powder! !
Hawkdancer   

[Gimlis Ghost]

Gimli, never heard of the flash paper before!  Is it percussive, and what is the composition?  Not sure Would want to try pushing it down the barrel if it is more sensitive than black powder! !
Hawkdancer   

Well according to this flash paper is pretty much Nitro-Cellulose, basically the same as some early smokeless powders like the German Blatchen Pulver.

Paper cartridges for the Colt Cap& Ball revolvers of the 1860's used a nitrated paper to burn away cleanly but I'm not sure if those would be the same. The paper they used was slightly moisture resistant likie the coating once used on playing cards, which has been used by prisioners to make an explosive powerful enough to break the locks of 19th century cell doors.

I've made paper cartridges for my 1852 Navy Colt repro using the very thin JOB cigarrete papers, but they left a tiny bit of debris, though I never had a problem with those fragments .

The weight of the paper for one cartridge would be miniscule but possibly could add a hair to the explosive force of a charge.

I was more concerned that its low flash point might result in a cartridge box detonation if a spark landed on explosed rounds.

[BowEd]

Good information, Ed.  Think I will try to make up some.  Some times, we get a bit lazy in adhering to primitive rules, depending on
the situation.

Gimli, never heard of the flash paper before!  Is it percussive, and what is the composition?  Not sure Would want to try pushing it down the barrel if it is more sensitive than black powder! !
Hawkdancer   

The rules at rendezvous are a bit more strict than what they are on this site,but are easily conformed to without any reduction in performance or accuracy

Gimli, never heard of the flash paper before!  Is it percussive, and what is the composition?  Not sure Would want to try pushing it down the barrel if it is more sensitive than black powder! !
Hawkdancer   

Well according to this flash paper is pretty much Nitro-Cellulose, basically the same as some early smokeless powders like the German Blatchen Pulver.

Paper cartridges for the Colt Cap& Ball revolvers of the 1860's used a nitrated paper to burn away cleanly but I'm not sure if those would be the same. The paper they used was slightly moisture resistant likie the coating once used on playing cards, which has been used by prisioners to make an explosive powerful enough to break the locks of 19th century cell doors.

I've made paper cartridges for my 1852 Navy Colt repro using the very thin JOB cigarrete papers, but they left a tiny bit of debris, though I never had a problem with those fragments .

The weight of the paper for one cartridge would be miniscule but possibly could add a hair to the explosive force of a charge.

I was more concerned that its low flash point might result in a cartridge box detonation if a spark landed on explosed rounds.

I've only camped at rendezvous 1820 - 1840 camps or fur trade era camps.The cap and ball pistols were mainly used at civil war camps.A little later period.Very interesting get togethers.Liked to watch the cannon shoot matches at targets.
Many buckskinners do own the pistols though.I've never used the flash paper myself.I'm sure there's a safe way to use it if it was used back then.Regular old typing paper does the job on muzzle loaders.
After shooting down the range out in front of the shooter the pillow ticking can be examined.Most times it has a charred ring a little bit  and intact yet.Depending on how new the barrel is the rifling or your patching material is too thin it can cut the ticking some.A hundred shots or so usually wears the cutting edge of the rifling off.Never followed up on what the paper patch might look like.I imagine less intact.
I don't consider myself an expert but can only speak about my own barrel.I've found even with the paper being thinner that the pillow ticking the accuracy is still very good,with the load getting completely burned up before the ball leaves the muzzle seeing little red droplets on inside of the end of the barrel.
Getting consistent accuracy from a muzzle loader is about like shooting a self bow.The loading or drawing process process should be consistent for consistent accuracy.
Normally this barrel shoots good with a lightly lubed .10 pillowtick patch and a .530 ball.Normal like it should be.

[mullet]

A friend of mine got into long range shooting with his Sharps 45/70. He used to soak paper in a nitrate solution before he rolled his paper cartridges.

I shoot wasp nest below the ball and on top in my .62 cal. flint smooth bore. It works great.

[BowEd]

I had a 45/70 sharps once too.Top rifle in picture.From C. Sharps Arms Co.,Inc. in Big Timber Montana.Rather expensive gun.
I just kept the .54 hawken below.

Had the veneer tang sight set up for it.34" heavy barrel.Reloaded my own brass cased bullets for it too.Right around .35 cents a bullet.Buying them cost over $3.00 a bullet.Damn near like the Quigley gun only did'nt reload with the paper patch bullet.Very nice gun but I could'nt get along with it.Sent it back to them minus the tax charges.

For accuracy reasons on the .54 I ram the ball home with a cupped tip so as to not dent the ball any.Mostly use swagged balls.

On the other end of the ram rod is my cleaning jag.I've ground that down to accept the long underwear cleaning patches for a proper fit.

I like it not to extend past the end of the barrel for gun case hauling reasons and hooking on brush etc. carrying it.Still plenty of length on the ram rod to get the job done cleaning.

The larger calibers are fun.Puts the odds in your favor deer hunting.Safe way to get ahold of a hornets nest shooting the attatching twig off.Fun shooting hedge balls and seeing them explode off osage or bark shooting squirrels off the sides of trees too.