Tillering--your opinions please!

[WhistlingBadger]

Yes, Eric, I did a little feeling the thickness, and I think that's exactly what happened.  I worked down the fades with a farrier's rasp, and it put just a tiny dip in that side.  Dang, there are a lot of ways to screw this up, and I'm finding all of them.

OK, guys, please help me out here.  It sounds like working it down to match the hinge would make the bow lighter than I want.  I don't need another 45 lb. bow, so if that's what's going to happen I'll probably not bother finishing it.  That would be a tremendous bummer, because for one thing I've put a huge amount of time into this thing, and for another this is the last really nice stave I have to work with. 

So, What do I do with this thing?
--What would the consequences be if I just leave well enough alone and just leave that hingey spot?  If it's a good shooting bow that just looses a little power or longevity because of the hinge, I can live with that.  But I don't want it blowing up on me or losing so much power that it won't hunt.
--What do the rest of you think of Stuck's heat treat idea?  I've seen people advise against that in other threads because the results are so unpredictable, but maybe this is a different case?  I've already heat treated the belly, if that matters.
--Any other ideas besides chop it up for the smoker?  With the holiday season coming up, I guess that isn't the absolute most tragic option.      But I'd sure like to save it if I can.

I sure appreciate the help, guys.

[Morgan]

I’m not sure what the consequences would be of leaving it. If it’s going to fail, it will probably be at that weakest spot. You can re heat it there. May or may not work. You can over heat and cause the rings to delaminate. Happened recently to a bow of mine, certain that was the cause so be careful there. If you have the length to work with you can pike it and re-tiller working that mid to outer limb around. My first several bows, I struggled with too much bend in the middle. I have to consciously work mid limb out and move in to the fades as I get the mid to outers moving like I want them to. If I don’t I’ll flub it up every time. Whatever you do, good luck and have fun doing it.

[Eric Krewson]

By all means give the area a heat treat, very slightly reflex the hingy area when you do. I have a lot of bow bending forms in my shop and have heat treated a 6" spot that got weak on part of one of my forms with a very slight bend, it worked.

Really heat the area, spend some time, don't get your heat gun too close to the wood and let the area rehydrate for several days before you try to bend your bow.

[M2A]

How does it draw/shoot? If thats all good I'd enjoy the bow, watch for set in that area and go from there. I bet there are lots of guys that would kill to be able to tiller a bow to that point. I would not make it the VIP of your next BBQ just yet
Mike   

[WhistlingBadger]

OK, thanks for the encouraging words.  I'll try cooking it this evening, letting it sit for a few days, and see where that puts me.  If that doesn't work, I might just leave it alone.  Eric, I'm guessing maybe just a quarter inch or so of reflex in the fade?  Never tried that before.

[TimBo]

Be very careful not to pop the handle off if you add any reflex there. 

[WhistlingBadger]

It's got a self-handle, so shouldn't be a problem.

[TimBo]

I know, but if you flex it backwards the rings can pop apart rather easily.

[Eric Krewson]

You really want to work on that hinge not the fade itself, 1/4" would be fine.

[WhistlingBadger]

Ah, gotcha.  I'll just put the heat, and the reflex, where that thin area is.  Wish me luck!

[bownarra]

Umm I'm highly dubious that will sort out your problem. You can of course try it BUT be aware that once you have heat treated the effects of doing it again will be reduced. Just shooting it will not be good for that area out of the fade. The strain on a bow goes up the closer you get to the fades....that area is under quite some pressure!
If you really didn't want to lose more weight I would be tempted to fix the hinge by adding a small amount of flax/hemp fibers to the back. Glued with either hide glue or TTB3.
This will fix the hinge 100% without any of the other potential 'issues'. Get some raw unspun fibers.

[PlanB]

Bownarra have you tried flax fibers in TB3 to fix a hinge?

[WhistlingBadger]

Well dang, Bownarra, I already did it.  Gave it a good 20 minute heat treat and put in just a little reflex.  I'll give it a few days to rehydrate, put it on the tree, and see where we're at.  I'll probably head up the hill this weekend to collect some dogbane for fibers; supposed to be stronger than flax.  It this fix pulls out, which I kind of expect, I'll try slapping some fibers on there.  Not much to lost at this point, so maybe it's experimentation time.  Either way, I've gotta wrap this thing up and go find that beautiful piece of juniper...

[WhistlingBadger]

OK.  Heat treated about a 3" section just out of the right fade; added about 1/4" of reflex.  A little better?  Honestly I can't see a huge difference.  Seems to have picked up another pound or two of weight...or maybe it's just colder.

Edit:  Here's a before and after pic for comparison.
Before:



After:

[bjrogg]

Looks about the same to me to WB.

How close are you to your draw length and weight.

I’m sorry if you already said it. I didn’t read everything.

I’m thinking the only way to completely cure the hinge is to get everything past it bending a little more.

Hate getting one there.

Bjrogg