Perry reflex versus pre-bending cores and backing

[loefflerchuck]

I’m surprised no one asked about the bow length, draw and bending area before giving advise. That does come into play. Sounds like at 58-60” and I’ll guess 28” draw, Bownarra has the best advise.

[Eric Garza]

To be clear, I am designing this bow for a shorter draw of around 22-23 inches. So no, definitely not 28 inches.

[mmattockx]

I’m surprised no one asked about the bow length, draw and bending area before giving advise. That does come into play. Sounds like at 58-60” and I’ll guess 28” draw, Bownarra has the best advise.

I was treating it more as a qualitative question and not a quantitative one with numbers attached. Your details matter greatly for precise numbers, but the Perry reflex concept is valid for most any conventional wood bow design. It adapts to flat bows, R/D bows, recurves, etc. Even sinew backed bows use the principle, though it isn't named as such.


Mark

[Eric Garza]

I've found that heat-treating a good portion of the reflex in first and then gluing the rest of the reflex in to work much better especially with a white-wood.  The bow will keep more reflex once tillered

That is good to know. It makes sense.

[superdav95]

This was also what I was trying to say somewhat before.  Hickory takes well to heat treating.  I’ve done it a few ways and found best results with clamped to a form and baked over hot coals for couple hours till brown.  Hickory will retain shape of whatever amount of reflex you put in with heat.  I’m your case like Marc said doing first bit of reflex with heat then rest with glue up sounds lime it makes sense to me too.  I guess I’d have to try one to know for certain it would work for a pery reflex or not.  Good luck!