Heatreating and backing a bow

[chris21]

Hello all I'm making a holly oak flatbow 58" ntn  and I'm aiming for 30#28.I 've reach at 30 # 22" now and I want to ask should I continue tillering or should I heatreat now?also when I should glue some goat rawhide I 've made?

[Jakesnyder]

I would heat treat now. Gluing the rawhide backing on should be done after heat treating

[Pat B]

What Jake said. 

[willie]

Hello all I'm making a holly oak flatbow 58" ntn  and I'm aiming for 30#28. I've reach at 30 # 22" now and I want to ask should I continue tillering?

I suggest Badgering http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=61452.0

or should I heatreat now?

Why do you want to heat treat?

[chris21]

The stave has several knot holes and it's actually the first real bow I 've Make so far - i ve made a holly oak kids bow -and i ll like to strengthen it.Rawhide should be glued after reaching 28 inches draw or should I glue it after mistreating it now at 22?

[willie]

the rawhide will protect the back and should be done after heat treating so the glue will not separate. heat treating will make a stiffer bow, so it will be slightly thinner, but it will not make it stronger or keep it from breaking sooner. getting the wood too dry by heat treating actually might make it break sooner than if not heat treated. It is often used to gain a few pounds if coming in underweight at full draw.

as you get closer to 28" with your 30# goal, you should be looking for signs of early set taking. if that happens, you have to go thinner to avoid excessive set at 28" and maybe come in light and should at that time consider if you need to heat treat.

I guess some folks like to consider it a step to making every bow, but if it is not necessary, why bother?  do you live in an excessively humid area?

[chris21]

the rawhide will protect the back and should be done before heat treating so the glue will not separate.
I guess you wanted to writte "after heatreating".
Winter here are humid but in general its normal humidity.

[Pat B]

If you store your bow inside your climate control house humidity shouldn't be much of a problem.  And, if your back is clean and clear, even with a knot in it you shouldn't need a backing and especially at 30#.

[scp]

Assuming the bow bends in the handle and has a rectangular cross-section with wide flat back, I would rather not back it or heat treat it, for 30 pound draw weight, especially for the first real bow. Just concentrate on good tillering and see how well it shoots first. If it shoots slower than 130 FPS, you might try heat treating its belly later. I would not pull it more than 24 inches or more than 30 pounds, until the tiller appears to be perfect.

[willie]

I guess you wanted to writte "after heatreating".
Winter here are humid but in general its normal humidity.

yep, fixed it, thanks.

I agree with Pat and scp about not needing either a rawhide or heat treat if the bow has enough width and length for good practice and design.  Since you mentioned this being your first real bow, I should mention that the KISS principle is worthwhile for learning the basics. You are more than welcome to post a pic if you would like comments or specific advice. 58" is ok for a bendy handle design, how wide is it?

[gutpile]

frankly I wouldn't heat treat a knotty bow ... likely to over cook it where you holes are and make it a danger point.. at 30lbs you could probably just till it out as is and back with rawhide for protection at hole spots... pushing wood envelopes is what we kinda do...not having seen stave I am quoting blind...if you want to pick up speed flip tips with heat..  hope it works for you... good luck..gut

[chris21]

At start of fade is 1 3/4" and at tips is 3/4" I'll try post a pic at 22".I think tiller is not good left side looks like a hinge outer 3rd of limp
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZFh6PzdNYKs3jyHP8

[willie]

At start of fade is 1 3/4" and at tips is 3/4" I'll try post a pic at 22".I think tiller is not good left side looks like a hinge outer 3rd of limp
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZFh6PzdNYKs3jyHP8

yes outer third left (and mid right bending too much). I would leave them alone and get the inner limbs bending more. before drawing it further. 1-3/4 is enough width to get your tiller goal, maybe even too much unless your holly is very soft