Pyramid build (first bow) questions

[Stickshooter]

So I put aside the board I had previously picked out for a bow (prior thread) and obtained one with a better grain pattern. It still had runoffs so I backed it with some linen and TB2. I rough shaped everything on a table saw, red oak Pyramid board build,  2x2 1/4” fades, 1/2” tips, 74” ntn. While Tillering this I noticed that I needed to thin the outer limbs significantly to induce a circular tiller. Is this indication that I setup something wrong in the rough out stages? I’ve effectively thinned the ends to 3/8” just shy of the nocks (4” from tips) I also had a very difficult time getting the string to grab the nock, ended up having to go the depth of a chainsaw file and then some and they still “look” like they want to slip. Another problem this led to was trying to keep the string loop so small that it now hangs up quiet tight on the limb taper. Is this normal? Sorry no pictures right now, I will try to get some tonight or tomorrow. Also, seeing as this is my first bow, what indications are there that I should just stop and scrap the project (I’ve heard terms chisel used but don’t know what that means?)

[George Tsoukalas]

I am having a hard time following.

You can cut nocks deeper to track the string better so cutting nocks deeper is not an issue a 3/8" nock may be. I leave them 1/2".

You can also leave the handle full width  and shape it later to better track the string.

Anyway...

There are board bow build alongs on my site. I ask that yo check it out.

Jawge

[mmattockx]

While Tillering this I noticed that I needed to thin the outer limbs significantly to induce a circular tiller. Is this indication that I setup something wrong in the rough out stages? I’ve effectively thinned the ends to 3/8” just shy of the nocks (4” from tips)

For a true circular tiller with constant limb thickness on a pyramid shape the limb needs to taper to zero width at the nocks. Since that is impossible you will find that the tips get a bit stiff unless you reduce the thickness a bit in the outer 1/3 or so of the limb. A smooth taper from full thickness to maybe 1/16" less at the nocks will help with the bend out there if you want it. Lots of people prefer stiffer tips and just leave it as you have it, which should be perfectly acceptable for your bow as well.

Pictures would be very helpful but it doesn't sound like you should be scrapping it yet. If nothing else, keep tillering and you will learn more as you go even if it ends up as firewood.


Mark

[bradsmith2010]

yes for better help,, we need pictures how it is bending on long string etc

[Stickshooter]

I am having a hard time following.

You can cut nocks deeper to track the string better so cutting nocks deeper is not an issue a 3/8" nock may be. I leave them 1/2".

You can also leave the handle full width  and shape it later to better track the string.

Anyway...

There are board bow build alongs on my site. I ask that yo check it out.

Jawge

   I have looked at your site (among many others) there is a lot of good information on it, thank you for that! While trying to tiller to circular profile, I ended up taking the outer limb down to 3/8" thickness. I left approx. 4" of the tip alone at 1/2" thickness, with the nocks being in this area.

[Stickshooter]

While Tillering this I noticed that I needed to thin the outer limbs significantly to induce a circular tiller. Is this indication that I setup something wrong in the rough out stages? I’ve effectively thinned the ends to 3/8” just shy of the nocks (4” from tips)

For a true circular tiller with constant limb thickness on a pyramid shape the limb needs to taper to zero width at the nocks. Since that is impossible you will find that the tips get a bit stiff unless you reduce the thickness a bit in the outer 1/3 or so of the limb. A smooth taper from full thickness to maybe 1/16" less at the nocks will help with the bend out there if you want it. Lots of people prefer stiffer tips and just leave it as you have it, which should be perfectly acceptable for your bow as well.

Pictures would be very helpful but it doesn't sound like you should be scrapping it yet. If nothing else, keep tillering and you will learn more as you go even if it ends up as firewood.


Mark

 Thanks Mark, I think that explains what I believe I am seeing. I dont have any pictures before I started tillering, but the outer limb wasnt moving at all, as I viewed it or as my "gizmo" was showing. In these pictures I am getting a even rubbing with my gizmo, but It still looks elliptical to me. Im not so much worried about scrapping this bow, I am more questioning what things I should be looking for within the wood itself to warn me to scrap it and not continue with risk of injury. Ie. I know if a splinter lifts its junk, but what else?
 First pic is not strung (about 1 1/2" set in both limbs, 1/8" positive tiller, top limb to the right ) second is braced at about 8" from back of bow, last is 21" draw and approx. 20lbs pull

P.S. Sorry for the messy shop! And I have no idea why the 2 pictures are upside down?

[bassman]

Wow , your fades are really abrupt

[Stickshooter]

Which part are you referring to as abrupt? I haven’t worked the handle area at all, I wanted to get a feel for Tillering first. I felt like I should have brought the handle out more into the limb area (past where the front profile starts to taper back in, but I wasn’t sure if that was right.

[Eric Krewson]

Your fades should look like this;