« previous next »
Pages: [1]

Author Topic: Ipe Questions  (Read 1817 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Ipe Questions
« on: May 06, 2020, 09:41:51 am »
One of our local hardwood suppliers has some Ipe in stock. I have zero experience with the stuff and would like some tips on things to look for, what to watch out for (if anything) and how to work it. It would be used for the belly lams in multi-lam bows, most likely hickory backed with a maple core.


Thanks,
Mark
Logged

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,633
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2020, 10:28:28 am »
If you can see the grain you want it as straight as possible with no swirls in the grain.  With 3/4" stock you can build a great hickory backed ipe bow.
Logged
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2020, 10:33:22 am »
Quote from: Pat B on May 06, 2020, 10:28:28 am
If you can see the grain you want it as straight as possible with no swirls in the grain.  With 3/4" stock you can build a great hickory backed ipe bow.

So just the usual grain related things? There is nothing specific to Ipe to watch out for?

Is it particularly hard to work? How do people cut lams? I have been using a table saw for maple and oak, is that reasonable for Ipe?


Mark
Logged

Offline PatM

  • Member
  • Posts: 6,737
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2020, 10:59:48 am »
Watch for knots or pins.  Rare,  but Ipe doesn't handle them very well.
Logged

Offline willie

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,268
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2020, 12:05:28 pm »
I have a carbide blade for cutting steel. you can get them in smaller diameters with the same arbor to fit most tablesaws. I have never used it for ipe but I did use it for antler the other day and ripped some white oak just now. cuts slow on account of no rake. but beats abusing an otherwise nice blade. Others could comment better about cutting ipe in particular.

 I have heard some extremely bad accounts about breathing ipe dust.
Logged

Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2020, 12:49:11 pm »
Quote from: willie on May 06, 2020, 12:05:28 pm
I have heard some extremely bad accounts about breathing ipe dust.

Many of the oily tropical woods are quite nasty in terms of the dust. The Wood Database says it has mild toxicity but can cause skin, eye and respiratory irritation. I would wear a quality dust mask for all my work with it, there is no point in taking chances with it.

What do people do for gluing? Wipe it down with acetone or isopropyl alcohol then glue immediately after the solvent has evaporated?


Mark
Logged

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,633
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2020, 01:23:17 pm »
With oily woods like ipe I sand the glue surface down well, brush off the dust and glue it down. Solvents can pull oil to the surface and a freshly sanded surface accepts glue well. I've used TBIII on ipe with good luck. I've also used Weldwood Plastic Resin for it also with good results.
Logged
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline mmattockx

  • Member
  • Posts: 984
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2020, 01:35:39 pm »
Quote from: Pat B on May 06, 2020, 01:23:17 pm
With oily woods like ipe I sand the glue surface down well, brush off the dust and glue it down. Solvents can pull oil to the surface and a freshly sanded surface accepts glue well. I've used TBIII on ipe with good luck. I've also used Weldwood Plastic Resin for it also with good results.

Good info, thanks. Would you use TBIII on a lam bow? That seems to call for something stronger to me. I don't think the Weldwood resin is available in Canada, what about epoxies?


Mark
Logged

Offline PatM

  • Member
  • Posts: 6,737
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2020, 03:15:36 pm »
Epoxy is regularly used and works fine.   I always wash Ipe with dawn and hot water and let it dry.

 The thought that solvents pull oil to the surface seems far fetched.  Of course they will want to bleed back to the surface after being washed away but not THAT quickly.

  Quite a few epoxies are designed to bond well to oily woods with no extra cleaning required.
Logged

Offline TimothyR

  • Member
  • Posts: 658
  • PM110782
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2020, 11:40:08 pm »
All good advice. remember one thing. It doesn't take much Ipe to make a heavy bow. I made one that pull #50 and it was less than a 1/2" thick.
Logged
Freedom dies one compromise at a time. III%

Offline Tommy D

  • Member
  • Posts: 342
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2020, 03:49:16 pm »
For what it’s worth - and only because I asked this question earlier - I have bought a 3/4 vari-tooth bandsaw blade in half an inch (the largest my “hobby” 10 inch bandsaw will take and it has been working great on Ipe. I have been using G-Flex and/or West 105 resin to glue up. Sanding with 40 grit, roughing with an old saw blade and cleaning with acetone or alcohol. Other than a handle popping off - which was more a design flaw - I have had no problems. I’ve found a sharp cabinet scraper a useful tool for tillering. Been having a lot of fun with the bamboo backed ipe.
Logged

bownarra

  • Guest
Re: Ipe Questions
« Reply #11 on: May 08, 2020, 12:37:26 am »
Do not use acetone or similar. See how long you need to keep 'removing' oils from ipe for it to stop :) A fools errand haha
TB3 is perfectly ok to use. It will not 'fail' if used correctly.
EA40 is another great glue.
The pin knots chrysal on strained designs.
Just use a sharp blade for lam cutting, no need to go the bi-metal M42 route.
Do not try to bend too thick belly lams in fancy curves.
If you wanted to do a recurve etc use the kerf method.
Logged
Pages: [1]
« previous next »