Arrow-fix for foreshafting?

[Mesophilic]

looks like a pencil sharpener.

To do the socket cut, you chuck the whole unit in a drill, and the whole thing spins as you push the shaft into the cutting bit..  Then it has two pencil sharpener type cutters on the other end for tapering points or nocks. 

[artcher1]

I checked out the Arrow-fix video and it's looks like a really nice tool. If I was still making arrows I believe I'd invest in one. I've repaired hundreds upon hundreds of arrows over the years doing it the old fashion way using your typical two-winged foot. IMO, you're better off to go ahead and affix a hardwood foot on soft wood shafts when first building your arrows...….Art

[AndrewS]

An arrow fix is a nice tool.
The disadvantage is that the adhesive surface is quite small and the bonding has to be done with epoxy.
It is very good to repair arrows if the point breaks off. Foreshafting longer as 4 inch,  I wouldn't do with the tool.

[Hawkdancer]

The price tag is scarey!  Probably worth the investment for a younger person, though.  I think I will learn the old way first.  What is the safe and practical length for a footer?  And how does it affect spine?  Thanks,
Hawkdancer

[Lefty38-55]

Link = http://arrow-fix.com/

[Deerhunter21]

 I cant find the price, can someone tell me?

[Mesophilic]

I cant find the price, can someone tell me?

On 3 Rivers site it's $179.99, though I bought mine a number of years ago and I think it was closer to $150 and came with inserts for 3 different shaft diameters.

[Deerhunter21]

 

[TSA]

they are an excellent tool, they make a great " poor mans footing"

their literature purports to not even change the spine of the shaft, if repaired right in the middle.

i think the joint is an extremely strong joint, i have fixed shafts before by doing a simple 8:1 scarfe joint just behind the point , and they have held up for another pile of stumping again.

the beauty about the reparrow joint, being basically the same as the taper for fitting into your point, is that if it does fail, due to the direction of the joint, ands if  the shafts splits out footing, it will probably only happen when hitting a very hard object.
 I really would not anticipate an issue when releasing the arrow- and if something did happen the shards would be facing backwards- and not forwards into your bow hand.

[Mesophilic]

Per instructions, Arrow-fix cuts the socket pointing toward the the nock end.  While Reparrow cuts the socket n the foreshaft pointing toward the point end. 

Does either method make much of a difference on safety and impact strength?

[TSA]

personally, i have only looked at the reparrow. and i prefer the main shaft being tapered the same direction as the taper for the point.
If there was a failure- i think that would be safer.
 but surely it cant make a difference with either tool, each piece being the same , for all intents and purposes.
 Just my 0.02c

[Hawkdancer]

Any sort of break down range is no problem!  Any break before the arrow clears the bow is real trouble!  I would think you can cut either way with either too, it depends on which piece you taper, and which piece you socket!  The tool doesn't care!  But I am no great arrow maker.
Hawkdancer

[bownarra]

I wouldn't bother with those tools. Sure it may be strong enough but.....a 4 inch scarf joint is much stronger and can be done with a very simple jig and a sharp fine toothed handsaw. It will take you less than 5 minutes to foot a shaft like this.
Mount a block of wood 2x2x6 inches or so on a board for stability.
Drill a hole, shaft diameter, through it along the length.
Mark out a line that will travel 4 inches along the length of the hole. Make a cut along that line, deep enough to just go through the hole.
Now push your shaft through the hole. Cut the shaft using the initial cut in the 2x2 as a guide. You will get a nice neat cut along the shaft.
Do the same with your footing material.
Now simply glue them up using something slow setting. Use a thin strip of innertube or a good strong elastic band to wrap the joint until the glue is set.
This is the method I would use to foot a shaft with hardwood if I didn't want to do a traditional 2, 3, or 4 footed splice. Of course it also works very well to fix shafts. It can be used on any part of the shaft for a fix.
The quick setting epoxies are junk always use the slow setting 24 hour stuff if you are just getting small tubes. TB3 will work well.

[Hawkdancer]

Sounds like a simple rig, but we "geniuses" are always overthinking the problem! . Got any pics of your jig?  Thanks.
Hawkdancer