Long string-short string

[Pappy]

That is about what I do on the tip movement ,just my long string is just long enough to
reach and tie at the tips.I use a tiller stick until I get it ready to brace,I think some ,maybe
even most use the tiller tree for long string.I use the tree after it is braced so I can't tell you what the weight is when it is first braced,if it feels to heavy I just take a little more off and then
brace.Then when on the tree I never pull it over my target weight.This may not help much
cause I do a lot of it by feel till I get it braced.
    Pappy

[tom sawyer]

Lowell, yes 3" shorter than a longbow's nock/nock length is a good starting point for a short string.

One thing to remember about long strings, is that they don't give you a proper reading on poundage.  Especially if they are longer than necessary (just long as the bow so you can get it on the nocks).

I get the tips moving about where they would be at brace, and then I short-string it at a low brace (3") and just long enough to mark weak places.  I don't usually pull a short-strung bow the first few times I string it, I can usually find stuff to correct without pulling it.

[Lost Arra]

Lennie: do you make those initial corrections (scraping, rasping) with the bow braced?

[tom sawyer]

Not initially, because I don't want to stress the bow especially if the problems are pronounced.  I'll just mark with a pencil and unstring.  Rasp/scrape, restring and check.  I don't exercise the bow at all until it is bending smoothly at brace.  Only then will I pull on the string and sight down the limbs or put it on the tiller tree and exercise it to the intended weight.

I'm of a mind that you are better off getting a smooth bend before you do any significant exercising of the wood.  I used to think you had to pull on it to let the changes register, now I think all that does early on is damage wood in weak spots.