Oregon White Oak (Garry Oak)?

[BigWapiti]

I just cut a couple Garry Oak trees - 1 - 3" diam, another about 4".   Anyone ever get a bow out of Garry Oak (Oregon White Oak)?  I've seen pictures of NW Native American bows made of Oak somewhere - can't seem to find them now... argh.   I think it be this type of oak as from my reading its the only native oak in this area (Wa).

Would anyone have any suggestions for laying this wood out?  What style and dimensions??

Bark came off pretty easily, and its out in my machine shed on horses letting the Ellensburg winds help dry them up.

Anyone work with oak saplings before, that might want to give me some recommendations?

Thanks!

Mike

[Pat B]

Mike, There are quite a few guys here from the NW. Maybe one of them will chine in with info for you. I have made bows from Eastern White Oak and find it to be a good bow wood. I believe that Ted Fry, of Raptor Archery(Hood River, OR) has made bows with Oregon White Oak. You might give Ted a call or drop him an e-mail.     
   Welcome to PA.      Pat

[Rich Saffold]

 Mike,  Garry Oak is tough, but good wood. I have a beautiful 68" 65@29" bow given to me by Rick Tatum as a result of a fun design contest on PP a couple years ago.

1.5" outside the fade tapering to 1/2" tips basic pyramid style stretched out a bit. Leave the back as is. The cambium  bark looks great on it.

This will be easy compared to that vine maple hula hoop you were working on...

Rich

[BigWapiti]

Thanks Rich - yeah, the hula hoop.... that very stave is the reason for my tree finding excursion yesterday.  I was trying to get that dang thing to cooperate and realized, its tougher than I am.  I decided to save that one for a day when I have far more will .  Besides, these oak are much closer than the VM.

I finally found the picture I was looking for - its the one in TBB 1 - There are some hand drawing pages of native bows - I don't have the book here, but if I recall correctly its the right-most bow, on the left-side page.   It has flipped tips and similar in dimn as you describe (if I recall correctly).

That does help, thanks Rich!  and you're right, that cambium is some perdy stuff.

I'm looking forward to working on a nice straight piece of wood for a change!!

[BigWapiti]

Hi again -

I was just reading the TBBI in my shop - its pg 178.  And it looks like this one was designed 2.5" wide at the fade going out to 1 1/16" wide at the tips???  It has a grove in the belly (says its a "self bow of oak from lower Columbia River, possibly Chinook").

First, do you think they made this so wide because of its shorter length (54 1/4" L)?   Or does the wood need that width like you would cottonwood??  (doubt it, I presume its the former).

Similarly with the width at the nock shelf (1 1/16") - probalby because of the stress from the shorter length?

Also, for the groove at the limb ends - anyone know if this was for decoration, or function?   Maybe to help with the flipped tips?  easier 'flipping' or stronger curve maybe.

Hmm, I'm liking this.  Research and trying to replicate a bow style.  I do think I'd like to make it longer though - don't think I'd have the umption to practice enough to get real good at a short half draw bow.

Definitely open to listening to thought and opinion on any of this subject.

Thanks all.

[Knocker]

Hey BigWapiti,

I am glad you started this thread, and will be watching with interest.  I live in Tumwater, Washington, and we have a few Oregon White Oak here.  I have been told we are near the most northern limits for the tree. If yours turns out well, I might have to give one of my oaks an opportunity to have a second life as a bow!

Keith

[Rich Saffold]

Mike, A bow that short and heavy needs both the width, and the tips "flipped" like that to counter keep the cast, and not take a "cast robbing set" The groove may help with straightness/alignment when heat bending, and the width helps with the fatter string they would have used, plus on such a short bow you don't have to keep the tips nearly as thin since a bow this short really doesn't have the tip or outer limb mass to affect performance of any consequence.

[BigWapiti]

Sigh...   I just returned from a week long business trip to find my newly cut oak saplings severely checked.  I had sealed the ends with TB right after the tree hit the ground.  The checks are not just on the ends, but there are also short 3" - 8" cracks along the grain throughout the trunk. 

Have any of you who have worked oak saplings found this to be inherant of the wood?

I need to find out how best to dry this wood before I go get some more.   I've wanted to make a native replica bow out of this oak since starting this new hobby. 

Come to think of it, I did remove the bark the same day as cutting it, I'm now thinking that this might have been the wrong thing to do.

Thoughts?