Cow horn drying checks

[wizardgoat]

A while back I bought a bunch of cow horn tips online. They were pretty cheap, but more than half had some pretty bad checks, and some had hairline checks. I’ve nearly used all of the good ones, and I’m trying to decide if there’s any use in attempting to use the rest.
Has anyone ever tried? Thin superglue? Not worth the time?

[Ryan Jacob]

Maybe you could make overlays out of them?

[Hawkdancer]

Arrow nock inserts or shims? 
Hawkdance

[wizardgoat]

Ya there’s plenty of material for horn overlays inserts and that kinda thing, my question
is more about using them as horn cap nocks

[Bryce]

I wouldn’t be using flawed material. I’ve had em fail on me before when I used some questionable horn for a horn nock

[Tonyaphisak]

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[peacefullymadewarbows]

Don't do it my guy. I've had what appears to be totally intact cow horn still snap off. If cracks are present its a no go unless draw weight is below like 50lbs. I know how you feel. It's hard to find good cow horn tips.

[meanewood]

I've come to the conclusion that if you want to use natural, 'authentic' materials to make 100lb + Warbows, you have to get used to the fact that things break.

Bows break, strings break and nocks break!

It's all part of the journey but don't start the trip with something already cracked and certain to fail sooner rather than later.

Come to think of it, I'm broken too. Injury and old age will do that to you. No more 100lb + Warbow shooting for me I'm afraid.

[JNystrom]

While all the tips are true... I've found my self in the corner with only flawed horns and great anticipation to shoot the bow.  So, what i've done is made these sort of viktorian style nocks that the string loop groove goes all around the nock, instead of mary rose style side nock. Sidenocks great bigger splitting pressure, while those sort of back nocks give all around pressure. Also leaving the horn a bit thicker, helps.

Material difference matters, buffalo horn is tolerant, cow horn not so. My success was with buffalo horns that had some checks, they are still hanging on that bow. The bow is 110 pound tonkin-ip longbow, shot with fastflight and 300 grain arrows as the first ever shot. Actually that bow haven't ever been shot with heavier than 400 grain arrows.

[peacefullymadewarbows]

Jere - That's interesting. I have had the opposite. I have have had to leave far more material on buffalo horn nocks than cow horn. I wonder if there is a disparity between European and American cow horn. All things considered I use exclusively side nocks which could contribute.

Also the stats on that bow of yours is insane. Very surprised it has held up with that light of arrows. I bet they go a kilometer.

[JNystrom]

The stronger, the heavier it is. But maybe buffalo horn has problems with the grain separating and splitting. I like the sidenocks better, and cow horn too.

Nah, they didn't go a kilometer. Some 280-290 meters. Energy was lost somewhere in the way... Tips were maybe too heavy - and that is a easy mistake to make with tonkin and ipe.
Just gave as an example, nocks, string and these bows can stand a punch! Best i've done is shooting 1,7 grains per pound. I haven't noticed any limits to arrow weight if there's enough spine, but yeah thats a different topic.

[peacefullymadewarbows]

That's impressive still. My wrist is sore hearing you say 1.7g per pound  . What's the diameter of the wood as it enters the horn on that bow perchance you know? No worries if not just curious.

[JNystrom]

The smallest i've used was 8mm wide drill bit, but unlike you would think it was on that 155# elm bow. The nocks were antler, so 8mm was still ok.
With this ipe-tonkin i used 10mm wide drill bit. I like these, now i don't need to be scared if they will break.
If you would really push it, maybe a true flight bow should have small 7-8mm drill bit used with tiny nocks.