BooYew

[rps3]

Thats a great looking bow, and fast too! I'm going to have to keep my chrono under the bed...no reason to set myself up for disapointment.

[DC]

Thanks for all the comments, 'preciate them. A third lam? I have ended up with a third lam on a couple of occasions when I screwed up and had to glue on a new belly. I'm not sure I would plan on it. It just seems to be that one more step from primitive. We put strange constraints on ourselves, don't we?
I put a lot of time into the splices. Backed bows are easier because one side of the splice will be hidden. I would like to get the points a bit better. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. One of the nice things about the shorter finger joint is that it's easier to glue a belly piece on to hide that side
I was hoping to get this one into the 190's and was that close. It's funny though, it seemed to gain a few fps during the shooting in period. I've never seen that before so I may be mistaken. maybe next time.
Thanks again for all the nice comments

[DC]

Thats a great looking bow, and fast too! I'm going to have to keep my chrono under the bed...no reason to set myself up for disapointment.

I want to keep reminding you guys that I use a shooting machine to test the speed. My draw is a little short and I have a lousy release. When I started using the machine the speeds went up 10-15 fps. I don't think this takes anything away from the bow. I'm pretty sure that Badger(or other good flight shooters) could get the same numbers as I get with the machine. When I try to shoot through the chrono I get a lot of errors and the harder I try, the more errors I get. The machine gives me consistency that I just don't have.
It's quite possible that you could get similar results. Especially if your manual result are kind of inconsistent.

[simk]

One fine bow again. Intersting how you always slightly vary your d/r design. Is this depending on your actual mood, coincindece or do you follow a master plan in the changes done?
Cheers

[Bayou Ben]

Another sweet r/d DC.  I know you got the original idea from Marc, but you are starting to put your own spin on these which is really cool.
Question: so the handle piece is glued on and then spliced? 
 

[DC]

One fine bow again. Intersting how you always slightly vary your d/r design. Is this depending on your actual mood, coincindece or do you follow a master plan in the changes done?
Cheers

I'm trying to get to 200 fps before I die. (fat chance) I just modify things a bit each time with no particular ideas and see what happens. This one was actually supposed to be more reflex but I put more bend closer to the handle and more bend pulled out than I expected so the net effect was to flatten the whole limb. It still turned out very well so i have to do some thinking about why. So far about all I know is RD, Bamboo and Yew. That will get me a fast bow. It's a funny thing, chasing speed. You make the bow, chrono it, pat yourself on the back(or not) and then the bow becomes just another bow where the speed doesn't really matter. Almost seems pointless but it's a challenge.

[DC]

Another sweet r/d DC.  I know you got the original idea from Marc, but you are starting to put your own spin on these which is really cool.
Question: so the handle piece is glued on and then spliced?

Thanks and yes, I glue a piece on. https://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,65285.15.html
 About halfway down the page. When you are cutting the splice it has to be cut at the angle you want it to be. If you cut the splice with the bow flat on the saw table when you fit the splice together in deflex the back opens out and you have to do a whole bunch of sanding and fitting to get it right. If you saw the splice at the intended deflex angle it fits better right from the start. I kinda think that doing it like that also meshes the riser in with the bow and maybe helps prevent the riser from popping off.

[Badger]

Nice bow D/C  what is the draw weight at 28". I might try and talk you into loaning me that bow for the flight shoots this year.

[DC]

Oh yeah, I forgot all that. It's 44#@28". The speed was measured with a 438 grain arrow. I would be pleased to give/lend it to you.

[maitus]

Good bow, DC, and i think You would have got Your 200 if You had put some reflex on handle.

[Bayou Ben]

Ah, yes, I forgot about your jig. 
I always thought about cutting at an angle like that but never did.  Just sanded until it fit right and snug down on the clamps.  Your method seems better. 
So have you tried a triangle piece to fit between deflexed limbs, then add riser parts (like Marc does)?  Just wondering what's your thoughts on the subject....
 

[DC]

Good bow, DC, and I think You would have got Your 200 if You had put some reflex on handle.

I'm not so sure about that. At first glance it seems obvious that less deflex would be the answer but I have this gut feeling that there is more to RD's than that first glance. This could just be because all my fastest bows have been RD but I dunno.

[DC]

Ah, yes, I forgot about your jig. 
I always thought about cutting at an angle like that but never did.  Just sanded until it fit right and snug down on the clamps.  Your method seems better. 
So have you tried a triangle piece to fit between deflexed limbs, then add riser parts (like Marc does)?  Just wondering what's your thoughts on the subject....

No, I've never tried that, I didn't realise that's how he did it. It does look like splicing the thinner pieces first may make it easier to get a nice splice but then it would be tougher to fit the riser piece. I have some thin OS drying, I'll try this method on that next year. If the OS has dried by then Is the picture one of yours or one of Marc's?

[Badger]

Good bow, DC, and I think You would have got Your 200 if You had put some reflex on handle.

I'm not so sure about that. At first glance it seems obvious that less deflex would be the answer but I have this gut feeling that there is more to RD's than that first glance. This could just be because all my fastest bows have been RD but I dunno.

  R/D give you better string angles and a higher force draw curve

[simk]

I'm trying to get to 200 fps before I die. (fat chance) ... Almost seems pointless but it's a challenge.

DC, I really I can feel with you. Sometimes dreaming of chronos and a shooting machines....must have

Have the 200fps already been done with a (backed) wooden primitive bow and 10gpp?

Is it somehow clear that best chances for 10gpp/200fps are around 45#, 60"ttt and 28" draw? Why not e.g. 65# 50ttt bendy with flipped tipps and 26" draw, or...something completly else? Is the fastest bow also the best performer in flight shooting? So many questions...answers? cheers