Suggested finish?

[stuckinthemud]

Ok, so its not a warbow but I do need some expertise on medieval finishes. My gothic crossbow has bone, horn and carved antler inlays. What would you suggest as a good finish, plain bees wax, or wax and turpentine, varnish, or something else? Oh, and should I put anything at all on the bone? Thanks in advance, Andrew

[Hawkdancer]

Not sure if it is "medieval, but you might try a 3:2 mix of flax oil and beeswax.  Depending on what glue you used for the inlays, it should be good.  Rub it in well.  Takes a few days to set though.  It is actually a spoon finish for working spoons, and you will need to reapply occasionally.  Do a test if you have a cutoff or scrap to see if you like it.
Hawkdancer

[stuckinthemud]

I used gelatin glue

[Hawkdancer]

Should work!  The gelatin is basically hide glue, I think!  Truoil might work to, but I haven't used it on bows - it did not affect the brass inlay on gunstocks that I have worked.
Hawkdancer

[Pat B]

Tru-Oil does work on bows but it's not medieval. Oil with bees wax would probably be appropriate.
 FYI...an old adage about oil finishes on wood... Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year after that.

[stuckinthemud]

Boiled linseed oil is my favourite finish but i am concerned it would yellow the antler

[Hawkdancer]

I understand straight boiled linseed oil doesn't dry completely on some woods.  Tru-Oil has some additives that promote drying.  Lin-Speed is also a good finish but I haven't tried it on a bow.  It was originally primarily used for gunstocks and guitars.
Hawkdancer

[stuckinthemud]

I never had a problem with boiled linseed oil - 'boiled' means driers have been added- and I have used it on many types of wood but it does tint white woods, though it is absolutely stunning on dark woods with a polished wax on top - you need to let the oil finish curing before the wax is applied though.  I think perhaps I would wax the antler first to protect it from the oil, then oil the tiller, then wax the whole thing.  Any guess as to how the oil and wax would affect the bone- I only have a few small chips left and I'm not sure I have a large enough piece to make a proper test piece from.

[kbear]

Hawkdancer, I use gelatin glue for ALL my gluing. I often use it over horn for a gloss finish that requires no polishing. I also use a home-made varnish of boiled linseed (actually boiled raw oil) oil and colophony (pine resin) dissolved in gum (turps saturated) turpentine over that. It seems to remain sticky for a few weeks though since horn is not so absorbent........ but, gelatin glue is good for horn..... that's the point!

[Hawkdancer]

Your recipe is similar to a 1:1:1 boiled linseed oil, pine tar, and turpentine varnish I learned from canoe makers, used it on my lodge poles, very effective, lasted several years before I had to reapply.
Hawkdancer

[Bryce]

Your recipe is similar to a 1:1:1 boiled linseed oil, pine tar, and turpentine varnish I learned from canoe makers, used it on my lodge poles, very effective, lasted several years before I had to reapply.
Hawkdancer

By weight or volume?

[Hawkdancer]

By volume, I.e. Quart:quart:quart.  Warm up the pine tar and mix in the linseed oil and turpentine.  Remember to use real turpentine.
Hawkdancer