Juniper bow build questions

[burtonridr]

Hi everyone,

I'm getting ready to start another bow. I've got a few rocky mountain juniper logs that I just cut about a week ago. I've never worked with juniper before and could use suggestions on a limb profile to get a good hunting bow built for a relative. I think the logs are about 60" long, I will get exact measurements tonight. The person I'm building the bow for has a 29.5" draw length, I would like to get 40-45lb out of it. Any suggestions on what I limb profile to use?

From what I have read so far, it is a good idea to back juniper bows? I would like to maintain the natural wood color and texture. I've looked at white silk, but man it is expensive stuff, and difficult to find locally. I read tissue paper works, would it be ok to back with white tissue paper?

Does juniper do ok with a quick dry method? how about the rest of the log splits, will they be ok just removing the bark, sealing the ends and placing in our crawlspace?

[Ryan Jacob]

Well, the only thing I can say is that you may need to make a bendy handled bow to accomodate that draw length. Also, if you want to keep the wood color and texture, why not just back it with wood, like say, maple?

[burtonridr]

Thanks for the reply ryan.

Ok I think I can do the bend through handle. The maple backing, I've never done it before but it seems pretty advanced. Does it require special tools? can I just go buy a stick of super thin maple somewhere and clamp it on while it dries? Is it that simple?

If I don't do the hardwood backing, will tissue paper work? I mean functionally? I've read somewhere that the material just needs to prevent fibers from lifting on the back, but tissue paper just seems.... odd.

[Ryan Jacob]

As for tools, you may need a band saw and a plane for the backing if you want to make it yourself. The bandsaw is just there to make the juniper’s back flat so that there will be a good, flat surface for glue. I think 3 rivers sells pre-made backing strips though I’m not sure if they have maple. As for tissue paper, it is of questionable value in terms of adding strength, though I believe it may be good for painting designs on the bow. Rawhide is a more proven option as a backing than paper and, though more expensive, is both more durable than paper while still looking a somewhat natural color.
Edit:
Since your using juniper, you’re going to want to pad the clamps to avoid damaging the wood, also use lots of clamps for a good glue line.

[Pat B]

Rawhide backing will give you a natural look.

[burtonridr]

thanks for the suggestion guys, I will look into rawhide, sounds simple enough to apply. I would like to be able to do something like a maple backing, but I'm really not equipped to give it a shot yet. Any suggestions on cool finishing techniques for the rawhide? coloring, etc? TB3 ok for the application?

Any suggestion on a limb profile? Or type/style of bow that would offer good performance with a rawhide backing?

Really wish my wife hadn't just tossed my stash of tendons I had in the freezer

[Pat B]

Any carpenters glue will work. Once on, rawhide is a perfect canvas for craft paint and or India ink. With an oil finish it becomes almost transparent showing the wood underneath.
 I like to put rawhide down in 2 pieces, one for each limb with overlap at the handle. After soaking in warm water the deer or goat rawhide generally will drape over the limb making it contour to the limbs surface.
 Size(coat) the back of the bow with glue, wipe excess water from the rawhide and coat one piece and lay it down on the limb and working from the handle out the limb work out any air bubbles and excess glue pockets. Next do the same on the other limb. I like to wrap strips of old bed sheet around each limb holding the rawhide down. Be sure the rawhide stays centered as it likes to slide the direction of the wrap. I leave the cloth strips on for an hour or so then taking it off. By now the glue should be set but not hard. Check for air bubbles or excess glue pockets again. They can usually be worked out to the side with your thumb of fingers. If you can't work them out make a small cut, lengthwise in the rawhide with a sharp razor and work the air or glue out. The small slit will close up and you'll never notice it. You can also trim the excess rawhide from around the edges with the same razor. Then let it dry for a few days and you should be able to add a finish if you are ready. The edges of the rawhide will sand smooth.
 Good luck.

[burtonridr]

Thanks for the great info pat!

Now I just need to find a source for the rawhide, I may go the cheap/time consuming dog bone route.

Got around to measuring the logs last night, they range from 62" up to about 68"... The mountain maple is 68", the juniper pieces are 62 and like 64".

Also, had to finish butchering my portion of an elk from a hunt last week, I managed to get a backstrap sinew and then I spent a considerable amount of time removing all other sinew sources on the leg quarter as I went along. I have about a 1 quart bag full in the freezer of tissue to work into usable sinew. Might have a enough for a bow after it is all processed along with the stuff Pat sent for the arrow trade, well see 

This is off topic, but worth mentioning. When you butcher out the lower leg muscles, they have ALOT of sinew material if you are willing to work for it. Also, if done carefully, they can produce nice little tender meat pieces that are freed from the sinew. Normally they just get ground up into burger, but if removed from the tendon material, they would make great finger steaks.