recurve pulling to the right

[nsherve]

I thought I was finishing my second ever recurve and went to test shoot. It is pulling to the right and the string shifts to that side after loosing the arrow. There seems to be a little twist in the top arm, but it doesn't look like much.  How could I fix this? Other than that, it shoots very straight (and I'm not even close to be an outstanding archer). I'm planning to send it to a friend, and it's also my first give away. At this time, it's 60 lb @ 28, from hickory.

The first one I did has opposite twists at both ends and does not mess with the string at all, and they're both pretty visible. It also shoots pretty straight, other than whipping my arm... They're both from the same tree.

[PatM]

 Put the handle in a vice and manually twist the limb past straight a few times and then check again. Repeat as needed.

[nsherve]

Should I heat it first?

[PatM]

No.  Do it while it's strung.

[Pat B]

You may not have to heat it. Do as Pat says and if that doesn't work then heat may be needed.
 Is the limb thickness from side to side even. Uneven thickness can cause this too and you wouldn't notice it until it was put under stress.

[nsherve]

I could see it a little bit after I noticed it happen. I'll check the thickness some more tomorrow. It doesn't slip to the right until after drawn, though...

[Pat B]

That's why I think the thickness is off.

[simk]

hi nsherve

I just struggeld the same problem with two bows. Clamped'em down to reflex/de-set a bit and simultaneously overbend the recurve to the other side and heat treated the limbs => set was gone, string alignement was improved and string laid nicely on the recurve. works well. IMHO it's not important that the recurves align unstrung, but strung.

Maybe - as Pat B said - it also was a matter of uneven limb thickness. Still: I usually realize this problem late in the tillering process (after first stringing). Therefore at this point there isn't too much room for further thickness corrections.

good luck   

[nsherve]

I appreciate y'all's responses. I'll do a little more attempts at adjustment later on today.

Nate

[Pat B]

As I tiller a bow from floor tiller stage I mark out a thickness of the limbs with a pencil line along the sides at a specific measurement, say 5/8" and reduce the belly until I get to that line. At this point I floor tiller the bow again then feel the thickness along and across the limbs by using my thumb and fingers as a thickness gauge. Your feel can determine thickness differences better than your eyes. Once I hit low brace I can see if the limbs are twisted or not. At this point you should have plenty of wood left to make the corrections and still achieve your desired draw weight.
 When you bend recurves or even just flip the tips they should be in line with the limb plain. Before removing any more wood be sure they are. After that go to low brace again to be sure everything lines up. At this point you should have plenty of wood to make the corrections and still achieve weight.
 Don't try to rush to get a bow to a friend without being sure everything is going well with alignment and tiller. After you make a well tillered bow, then decide that you will send it to your friend. The most important aspect of building wood bows is to achieve good tiller and string alignment.

[simk]

Thanx Pat B - As I only work with not too thick saplings there's always some kind of limb twist after pretillering and before bending the recurves. I think that's why I usually have to do heat corrections. I'll remember your advice and try again with the next one.

[Pat B]

Simk, I've made hunting weight bows from 2" diameter osage poles and had plenty enough wood to make corrections and still come out with  a hunting weight bow(56#@26"). The ones I made didn't have recurves but did have reflexed tips. Taking your time and thoughtfully removing wood will help you get the bow you initially planned on.

[nsherve]

I made a few attempts, but it kept coming back. I tried without heating it while strung first, and it came back the most. Then, I heated it with a hot air gun a couple times and it still came back...not as bad, though. I guess I'll just leave it as is. It still shoot pretty well. The string doesn't come all the way off (never did).