titebond or epoxy

[redhillwoods]

Hey everybody.  i like to laminate backs onto bellies in reflex Perry style. I have always used epoxy for this, however I wonder if titebond is good enough. if so I, II, or III?

[Jim Davis]

I've been using Titebond II for laminations, but I don't do Perry reflex. Just before glue up, I sand lightly, raise the grain with water (wipe on then wipe off immediately), use a good spread and clamp firmly but not tightly. No failures of laminations.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I've used TB3 as much as Uni Bond 800 and have had zero glue failures with either. If you prep the surfaces as suggested you wont have problems with either. Keep in mind, TB3 starts to set quickly. You have about 10 good minutes to adjust and maneuver your pieces.

[Pat B]

I've used TBI, TBII and TBIII for backed and tri-lams bows with Perry reflex and never had a glue failure.

[bubby]

Like the man with the longest username known to man said it works fine but has a short pot life, here in nor Cal it won't last 10 mins

[Badger]

  I try to do my glue ups in the morning out doors when it is overcast and still dew all over everything. Gives me a lot more time. If it is sunny out barely 5 minutes

[simk]

epoxy is just great alchemy 

[Hamish]

Titebond 3 is probably the most used glue for full length laminations.
Pro :
Its water proof,(other TB's are not )

 long working time for a pva(not as long as epoxy or a urea formaldehyde glue)

 Relatively cheap.
 
Cleans up with water.

Long shelf life.

Thin, virtually invisible glue line. Highly creep resistant ie not effected by changes in moisture content.


Con: TB3 has good heat resistance for a PVA, but is not resistant enough to reliably safe for heat treating, heat corrections after glue up.

        TB3

Bow makers epoxy(not hardware epoxy)

Pro:
      waterproof,
     
Very strong, esp good for gluing on handle risers with exposed joints eg dip area.( TB3 can lift in this area)

long shelf life

Long working time.


Con:
       Messy clean up, need acetone.
       
       Glue line is thicker, more noticeable than TB, but not necessarily ugly.



Formaldehyde glues Urac, Resorcinol.

Pro: 

      Very strong, very good at exposed joints lip dip/riser transition.

      water proof

     resin/hardener versions have a long working  life.(unibond powder, plus water will go off much quicker especially when hot as mentioned in earlier posts).

Glue line highly resistant to heat, minor heat corrections are safe, with cured glue.


Con:

Short shelf life, months rather than years. (you can keep it in the fridge to extend its life)

Expensive

Harder to find in small quantities, as epoxies have replaced these glues in many industries.

Hard to clean up, need acetone.

Can dry with very sharp blade like dags of glue that can cut you and are very rough on edged tools.

Thick glue line, also very obvious with resorcinol which has a dark purple colour to it, may not be to some peoples liking.







     
 

[pnwarcher]

You folks using TBIII, have you had success gluing bamboo to ipe? I've done a few BBI bows, but always used EA-40 epoxy because I was worried about TB sticking to the ipe.
I use TBIII for gluing non-oily woods, and for rawhide backings.

[PatM]

TB is said to be the best glue for Ipe.

 The fact that TB fails at glued on handles  tells us that it does actually creep more than is assumed.

[aaron]

I have used tb3 on a bbi. No problems. I believe i degreased the ipe.

[Pat B]

I've used TB glues on osage, ipe, yew, hickory, locust and maybe other bellies with hickory and boo backs. Like I said, never had a glue problem.