Just a cheap try (Major Tiller-Problem)

[simk]

Hi Folks

I live in Switzerland, where a lovely Day just started...many thanks for all your good vibes an compliments!

I started building bows exactely one year ago and did some 10 working bows up to now.

Then i got fascinated in the Idea of building a angular selfbow - and here it is.

The nocks came into my mind as i tried to do the most simple and functional nocks...

But now you deserve the full truth - don't hit me.

Greetz

Simon

[simk]

---and some more...

[DC]

The notch in the handle scares me a bit but I've wanted to try splitting a limb like that. Way to go.

[aaron]

awesome- I have always wanted to try deflexing like that! We're gonna need more details:
what glue?
did you smooth the limb glue surfaces after sawing? How did they match up after bending?

[ohma2]

Keep posting ,your going to be interesting to watch

[simk]

Hi Folks

This one was just an experimental test bow - my working accuracy was very low and i did a lots of faults, from which i learnt a lot i and have already plenty of thougts about refining the concept.

For example about deflexing the handle: I did a crack by the saw. This causes more of a stretching instead of an bending in the wood above (ok, i used fresh wood, that makes it a bit easier...but i also cut it too/unnnessessarily deep accidentally, because i was in a hurry.

So for saftey reasons i eventually reinforced it with epoxy/glasfiber. So it works by know - i don't no if it would without?

Probably better use steam, especially with dry wood.

Even better - that's what i will do next time: I properly cut out a bigger piece of wood at the belly of the handle (ca. 2/3 of the diameter) bend the bow (maybe with steam) and fit the piece properly in again. With this method you will not cause a stretching-zone in the handle but a real bending zone.

I glued the bow with common epoxy (attachments). The epoxy also fills the space in the unclean cut.

Cheers

[simk]

@ aaron

I didnt smooth the limb glue surfaces. A good saw makes a proper cut and the resin goes well in the cappillars i think...

But better use a bandsaw for a thinner and cleaner cut - that was probably my biggest fault. Although my cut is not clean in the limb in any direction the limbs fit well mostly - but there are also very bad sections. If you do a +/- proper cut and have enough clamps you will have no problems with matching the limbs exactly. The most difficult part in the project is the cut: Anticipate where to do the cut in the limb and then really cut it there precise. With the cut you +/- define the draw weight also.

Cheers

[Springbuck]

  I like a "beginner" with a head full of good ideas!  Nice bow.

  For anyone interested, "sorbus" or "sorba" is the same as rowan.  I didn't know, so I looked it up.

[Parnell]

Very interesting post and beautiful photos of where you live.  Welcome to PA.

[simk]

I have a little question about my black locust stave:

After removing some rings there still remain 2 spots, where you can see fungal-water-stains; they are, where the bark was a bit damaged.

I'd like to keep the sapwood. What would you do? Ignore? They look very cool at least

Cheers and thanx

[Morgan]

Wow. I didn’t know fungus would get at black locust heartwood. Thought that stuff was rot proof, bug proof, and fungus proof. Curious to hear what others say about that...

[TimBo]

I would remove the sapwood - it doesn't look trustworthy.  Hopefully the heartwood is OK.

[DuBois]

  I know this is hard but just keep at it, you'll catch on sooner or later.

[simk]

Thanks for your thoughts. Still hope for more opinions for my decisionmaking.

The design of the stave ist already worked out to be used with the sapwood.

How about applying a linen-backing? Would this maybe help a bit?

Cheers

[willie]

Simon,

I like your willingness to try new methods, and I guess we will see what happens with that black stain. It almost looks like the wood may have been damaged and gave the fungi a place to get a start.