Fleshing tool talk

[BowEd]

It's a learning curve to master in the beginning fleshing learning the degree of pressure needed to flesh different thicknesses of hides.Practice makes perfect and larger hides are more work that's for sure.On a beam the hair needs to be absolutely free of dirt/burrs/and weed seeds.They will turn into holes if not careful.BJ's right freezing coon prior to fleshing with the fat stiff does a far better job.Fox are very thin and most any fat is mostly between their hind legs and possibly some grissel on the neck too.Taking just the membrane alone off fox is a tedious delicate process but worth the trouble when done right.A person will learn how to fix holes properly too with a tight whip stitch on the flesh side to be invisible from the hair side.
Deer will flesh easier on a beam or in the frame if a little meat is left on the hide too instead of just membrane alone.Delicate areas in the flanks etc. need to be watched too with less pressure applied on these areas.
In time that's why I usually just lace a deer hide into a frame and flesh it.Let it dry and dehair it too.Although I will always keep my fleshing beam and fleshing knife around for use for many hair on critters I wish to tan.
I've used a car wash before on large beef hides to just clean them up hair side very nicely prior to fleshing and dehairing.They actually smell kind of nice after their car wash experience too yet.
Working hides is not the stinky,messy, and buggy experience for me that I hear others complain about.

[Zuma]

I flesh mine with a dull draw knife bevel side up on a beam I made by splitting a small poplar tree . You are looking good so far. I dry scrape the hair off  laced up in a rack. I have tried the wet scrape but just to messy and stinking for me.
 Pappy

Sounds real traditional Pappy. Hope you had a great Thanksgiving.
I used the pressure washer after ash soak for four days. Worked fine.
I may try the one I have on salt with no ash bath (nothing ventured nothing gained)

Ed you are correct about the curve. Thank you all for making mine more enjoyable.

What I have  experienced so far is that the hide is much more delicate around the teat area of a doe
and of course tougher and thicker around the neck. I actually had to resort to cutting the teat area away.
Being a cheapster I found using the  trailer tie down strap ok, even kinda adjustable (more curved where flesh removed easier.) The solid 3/8" X  1 1/2" bar worked ok too, although painted. (will file of paint next time or buy a scraper) I checked the thread on Paleo Planet about the soy oil. just might try it.
I froze one of the smaller hides and have a larger one fleshed in a bucket of water near freezing outside.
I also have one pressure washed on the inside, hair still on salted and rolled. Tomorrow I may de-hair with pressure. Supposed to get milder.
Is there any way to clean a fleshed hide before dressing? Mine  got a little stained when pressure washing on the plywood.
Zuma

[bjrogg]

I feel the same way Ed. I love all the smells each type of critter has its own. Today on my lunch break I put up a mink. Funny thing everyone thought the shop smelled funny. They all know the smells to. Fox and mink have that skunkie smell. Coon just plain smell like coon. Muskrat has its Muskie smell and coyotes always remind me of a wet dog. You blend them all together and they have the smell of the fur shed. I make a mess but I always clean it up right away. Kinda miss the wood stove, that coon fat put off a lot of heat.
Bjrogg
PS dogs always like me this time of year. They really appreciate the smells to. My wife not so much but after all these years she doesn't seem to mind.

[bjrogg]

Zuma, I'm not sure what you mean by dressing it. Are you planning on putting some type of tanning solution? Or are you leaving it rawhide (just dried untanned) You could wash with a detergent might remove the stain. When I chemical tanned my beaver, muskrats and coon last year they were already put up air dried like a fur buyer would want them. I used a relaxer degreaser to rehydrate and clean the oils out of those greasy type hides. Might just try some dawn dish soap I don't think it would hurt a thing.
Bjrogg

[Zuma]

BJ,thanks
Dressing as I understand is brains, soy oil, eggs etc. Tanning involves bark. I am going to read up on bark today.
Drying rawhide in a stretcher seems like a pain when I could just cut  it into strips for halfting and freeze.
I would have to re-hydrate if I dry it. Or if I get lazier I could freeze the whole hide and continue some other time.
Zuma

[BowEd]

I feel the same way Ed. I love all the smells each type of critter has its own. Today on my lunch break I put up a mink. Funny thing everyone thought the shop smelled funny. They all know the smells to. Fox and mink have that skunkie smell. Coon just plain smell like coon. Muskrat has its Muskie smell and coyotes always remind me of a wet dog. You blend them all together and they have the smell of the fur shed. I make a mess but I always clean it up right away. Kinda miss the wood stove, that coon fat put off a lot of heat.
Bjrogg
PS dogs always like me this time of year. They really appreciate the smells to. My wife not so much but after all these years she doesn't seem to mind.

Exactly with like type experiences and after thought.Burned my useless coon fat in the wood stove too.Pretty blame hot stuff.My dogs all love most all my hobbies.Your degreaser use from dried put up hides is a must really.Rehydating in just water alone can get so much so to fear water rotting occuring.Them oils just seem to dry into that rawhide.Hard spots will take a while to lossen up.Reason I went to just fleshing then freezing them for my own tanning.
Zuma...As time goes on you'll figure out what methods suit yourself.Most times though there are'nt many short cuts for a nice product.