the real ticket is "group tuning"

[TSA]

remember, that if you have shortened the shafts as much as you safely can, and they are still a tad weak, you can tune your bow a bit to want the weaker shafts
1. by building the strike plate out a bit, taking the center of the shaft further from the center of the bow, will make the bow want a weaker shaft. You can do this by maybe adding a layer or two of double-sided carpet tape under the strike plate- it doesnt take much!
or a slightly thicker leather strike plate, or the soft side of velcro will also do it.
2.increasing your braceheight, will make a stiff arrow behave weaker
decreasing the BH will make a weak arrow behave stiffer

but lowering or raising too much will cause other problems, noise, efficiency etc.
its not something i would mess with too much, but will as a last resort.

just do a wee bit, and build the strike plate out a wee bit. a little bit goes a long way in all this.
good luck!

note on center shot bows- the raising of the Bh will have the opposite effect, as the power stroke is being changed.
whereas on non center shot bows, it seems to relate to the angle of the arrow on the bow- lower the brace height, the arrow points out further from the bow, making it behave stiffer!

the BH adjustment is such a contarversial topic, and results really seem to vary!!

[Stick Bender]

Ok thanks increasing the brace height is not a option I'm at 7 in. from the back which is max for me with out causing set I will try cutting the arrows hopefully that will work I'm close now if not I have your tips in my pocket , thanks for the thread Wille very informative !  Plus on the bow I'm working on now I'm leaving the handle unfinished tell the end and TSA with your idea of width change changing the spine I'm going to try tuning the width to the arrow a combo of spine and width to tune ,something new to try !

[TSA]

the brace height option  is my least favourite option, as changing the BH, can affect so many other things.
i agree, i would try everything else first.
sometimes we can all get a little lost in all the fine print, i have to be careful of that  at times 

good luck with your new build
cheers

[TSA]

heres the "form chart".. couldnt upload last night- internet too slow!
this chart assumes that the spine is correct for the bow- but certain form issues will create certain arrow flight abnormalities.

[DC]

OK, I'll bite. Mouth open???

[Stick Bender]

I have been guilty of all of the above at one point or another but particularly watching the Arrow !

[willie]

Mouth open???

changing the eye to anchorpoint distance?

nice resource, Wayne, thanks for posting it.

[TSA]

yer welcome mate!
DC, for me its mouth open in awe and amazement that i even hit the target

[Stick Bender]

I spent a good part of the morning bare shafting again & trimmed my arrows as I shot  most of my arrows where tagging knock left as I trimmed they started to come more towards center but now I'm at the point where my test arrow is getting to short for broad head use so my spine at 55-60s is to weak so now my dilemma is should I up to 60-65s or 65-70s but I'm going to retest tomorrow one thing I'm noticing is how erratic reading you can get with out constant draw I can probably get these other arrows heavy mass cedars to spine out even though there 55-60s too but seem to be stiffer I really need to build a spinier this winter now I'm stuck hunting next week end with wrong spines arrows  that I can shoot to point of aim ,makes me wonder how many others that are shooting improperly spined arrows and not even realizing it because they can group well with them ?

[DC]

When it comes right down to it, if you can put a couple of arrows in a 3" circle at 20 yds, do you really care what the spine is? Except for making more.

[Stick Bender]

Well I think it does in terms of penetration when some of the energy is being dump on a slight cant  & the arrows are more prone to being erratic with a bad release which has happened to me before hunting , & taking shots at strange angles and position so my thoughts are to take advantage of every advantage I can  plus for me when the arrows fly like darts I feel more confident but that's just my thinking !

[TSA]

i am with you stickbender.
i like to get my equipment as spot on as i can, then i have nothing to blame except myself, i agree it allows me to feel more confident with the shot!

if it were me, i would try them both, what bow are you shooting, and whats your drawlength!

but to set your mind at ease just a wee bit, i used to shoot with #55 shafts out of my one  longbow, i killed numerous  deer with that setup, and did a ton of stump shooting etc, then after i watched the S3 video on bareshafting, and eventually bareshafted my arrows properly, i discovered that bow was "properly tuned" with about #72 shafts .
 i was waaay off for the longest time- but the fletching really seemed to compensate.- nothing else changed, my instinctive point on aim was exactly the same- the shafts sure did look better in flight though

i honestly feel that if you are not way off, you will be fine, but like you said, get the shafts tuned in as soon as you get the chance.

[Stick Bender]

This particular bow is 68 in.47 lb @ 29 1/4 osage lever self bow 8 strand FF string my back up is a 62 hickory/sinew 45lb @29 1/4 B50 string the hickory/sinew flys flawless like darts a thing of beauty to watch with 50-55s knocked tapered Douglas fir I have these 30 year old Cedar arrows that I don't exactly remember the spine but I think there 55-60s (need to make a spines tester) but they seem to be heavier spine but heavy mass 586 grain with 125 grain head & fletched shaft, I'm going to work on those today ,55-60s are the heaviest shafts in wood that I have , I'm not worried about the shot at 20 yards is the max distance in my shooting lane , I'm just saying you know how it is hunting adrenaline pumping, surprise when you least expect it and the dear come in from strange angles a lot can go wrong different then shooting plastic critters , I'm not that good of archer need every advantage I can get. Sorry Willie not trying to hijack your thread just happened to be bare shafting and working arrows when you posted !

[Stick Bender]

Woohoo ! got these heavy mass cedars tuned out they have to be 60-65s I micro tuned 3 of them at give or take a 1/16 in the length 31 3/4 over all the angle in the pic is is actual angle and point of aims shot I hade to shoot threw my back gate to get 15 yards I live in the city the 15 yard pateren and angles actually was grouping better then the 16 Ft pateren maybe it's me but for any body that wants to try this be warned it will show every micro inconsistency in your form and release perfection it's not but overall consistency is what to look for but to be honest I think I could poke a dear with no fletching if I had to at 15 yards and these 586 grain cedars are really dumping there energy when they hit they where bouncing the bag back against the wood stop also it really shows you the differences in spine arrow to arrow but very time consuming process but worth it !

[Stick Bender]

16 ft.