Think it needs backed?

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I'm back to working on the Penobscot bow a bit again. I have tillered the main bow out to 29" and pulling about 45#. And it shot decent for the tips being 3/4" wide at the time. But it has this one spot I'm a bit worried about for longevity. But at the same time it's in a pretty low stress area with smooth transitions. I somehow managed to get the rest of the bow down to a single ring, except this area where it seems like the tree quit growing for about 20-30 years. I did just try a failed attempt at a paper backing. I didn't bind it down and just smoothed it on. Yr edges curled up more than I expected and pulled loose in some spots. So I stripped it off and got back to a clean back. I'm thinking I'll just leave it as is. It is a bit overbuilt in length for an Osage bow. Any opinions before I go further? Next step is overlays and to build the little bow.

Thanks,
Kyle

[George Tsoukalas]

That swirly grain (lateral grain)  is what makes a bow snaky. It is crucial to draw a line down the middle following that grain especially with osage. Like this...

http://traditionalarchery101.com/osage.html

and this...

http://traditionalarchery101.com/layout.html

I follow that grain with all woods.

Yes, you should back it, Kyle, since you did not follow the grain.

BTW that grain ay be straight which is fine  but it should be followed.

Jawge

[bradsmith2010]

I agree with Jawge

[simson]

Back it with rawhide.
To bad you didn't follow the grain, it was a nice snaky stave.
Buy a good drawknife, sharp and with a thick blade and you will find when working on the sides the blade will find the right grain pretty much automatically

[Mo_coon-catcher]

Thanks for the input guys. I figured it would need backed. Now to get some rawhide.

But it was a two part stupid on my part why I didn't follow the snaky portion. Because of the extremely fine grain I drawknifed it down so that the back was within a couple growth rings. Then roughed out the profile so I'd have less area to try chasing. Usually I can make this work out pretty good, but not this time. I ended up going down about 1/4" from where I started because I kept busting through layers. Even a dull scraper would go through 2-4 layers if I wasn't careful. By the time I got where I decided to stop the grain wandered a bit more than I started with. I think I chased through about 12-15 rings in that 1/4". I still didn't get deep enough to get to just one ring in that dark area. From what I can tell, there are several rings showing in that area, but it's hard for me to tell
Then I rushed when I tapered the outer third down to a 3/8" tip. I just penciled a straight line and rasped it flat. Pretty much trying to rush through getting it made and making mistakes I should know better than to do.
I'll take any more tips anyone wants to give.

Thanks,
Kyle

[bradsmith2010]

dont rush,,,,

[George Tsoukalas]

I've done stupider things...like the time I strung a board bow backwards. I made it from a board I inherited from my dad. Jawge

[bradsmith2010]

well I have too,,just didnt want to take up too much space to type it all out,,

[George Tsoukalas]

Kyle, don't feel badly. I forgot to say the bow broke  after I strung it backwards.
Jawge

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I haven't done that yet,not saying I won't, though I have had other people about do that to my bows. I have a mini heart attack every time.
I do t have any rawhide, so I'll have to order some. But I do have one of those big rolls of carpenter paper. Do you think it will be strong enough to hold down potential splinters? It's very heavy and feels strong. Plus I've got a LOT of it and I like the leather look it gets once it's finished. If it'll be a little iffy I have no qualms with ordering anything.

Kyle

[George Tsoukalas]

Kyle, I have no experience with that paper. I'd go with the rawhide.
Move'em up. Head'em out. Sorry. Can't help it.
Jawge

[TimBo]

Hey Kyle,  I will send you a PM.  I have some rawhide.