Layout.

[Morgan]

From making many of my own bows and going to many bow making gatherings the majority of handles are centered on the stave.Pressure point of bow and is in the middle with the bow hand and the arrow nocked around 1.5" above that give or take a 1/4" on the arrow pass onto the string.Tillered to a 1/8" positive tiller.If there was something graveiously wrong with that over all these years it would of been revealed by now by a majority of bowmakers.I'm talking even lengthed limbs.I've made them 1.5" longer limb on top too.
I don't mean it hurts at all to experiment though to find what you like.That's what is fun about this hobby.To make a point about flipping the bow around it can be advantageous when dealing with character bows.

I have seen talk of positive tiller before. And read contradictory explanations that left me confused at the true meaning. What is the general accepted definition of positive tiller?

[Dances with squirrels]

Slimbob, I'm fine with the way you referenced the Yumi, because you attributed some of its ability to balance to its design. It would be interesting to see someone try to tiller a straight limbed bow, with one limb twice the length of the other, into dynamic balance.

Morgan, positive tiller only means that at brace, the measurement from the top limb's fadeout to the string is greater than the measurement from the bottom fadeout to the string. Keep in mind, that since a wooden bow's limbs often have differences in their unstrung profiles, the general profile described as 'positive' or any accompanying measurements don't necessarily mean that the bow will be balanced at full draw, or even that the top limb is weaker.

Guys, I realize there's more than one way to design and tiller a bow, but sometimes the combination of designs, measurements, and methods advocated can make it more difficult, and it appears by some of the full draw photos and comments that follow, here and elsewhere, that balance isn't always achieved, recognized, or valued. Some of this stuff is subjective I suppose, but...

[BowEd]

You will find out Morgan making bows what suits you.All this talk simply means that the proof is how it feels and shoots for you/how it looks at full draw/and how it takes the usage put to it over time.In other words the proof is in the pudding.Keep us posted of your work.

[Stick Bender]

Morgan I make my bows the same as BowEd does but I always shoot my arrows with in 1/4 in up or down of the 1 1/2 Mark threw the Chrono and where the fastest point is I mark and that's usaly where I get the best arrow flight paticurly on bendy style bows, it can very 1-3 fps but did it by arrow flight before when I didn't have chrono , you might find that a lot of what your hearing sounds complicated but it's really not ,find out what works best for you and have fun with it , like a good friend of mine says bow making is just problem solving 101 ! and with natural material some times it's hard to take canned approaches it can very from stave to stave !

[George Tsoukalas]

Morgan, I guess for most it is a matter of preference. LOL.
I've made them every which way and see no difference but what do i know.

Regarding the lower limb problem you have. I have had it too.

What I do now is  leave a little wiggle room and have someone take a Gigi of full draw and adjust accordingly. It only takes a few scrapes to get them even or the lower slightly stronger.

If not you can move down the arrow pass a bit to even things out.

Jawge