Wanting to try a FG takedown sleeve

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I just got done tillering out a black locust bow for a friend that likes to take a couple months off work and drive around hunting. The bow Im workjng on finishing for him is a 50# at 29". I over built it a bit making the limbs 31" from fade to nock, and a little wider than necesary. Since he's new to trad bows in general and to hold up well to being atrung for long periods of time. So with the handle the overall length is right about 72" long. I've done a bunch of reading of making the sleeves and the process of pretty simple. I've just got a few questions that I can't find any specific answer to.

1: is it safe for rasp a 1/8" indenion around the handle so when the sleeve is built up, it sits at or just past flush of the original handle? The female side with be left rough while the male side would be sanded and polished.
2: will paraffin wax work as a release agent for the epoxy? It seems like nothing sticks to it and I have several pounds around the house for waxing traps. Plus I can polish it to a nice smooth surface and leave it as the finish for the male end.
3: anyone have a preferred direction to cut the handle? I marked it where I'm thinking about making the cut in a picture with the bottom limb being the male side.

All opinions appreciated. I'll post a bunch of pictures of the bow once I get it all finiahed up and pretty. Right now I still havnt sanded it clean. I figure I'll do that when I go to put the sleeve on. But it seems to shoot pretty quick and the wood is like scraping a piece of stone after it was heat treated. The burnished curl on my scraper was worn smooth by the time I got this one done.

Thanks,
Kyle

[PatM]

Better to do less angle and don't recess the back.

[turtle]

I did one years ago but can't remember if I recessed it any or not. I do remember I used beeswax for the  release so I think parrafin wax should work. Last year at the Tennessee Classic I saw a bow that the takedown sleave was made out of a product called FiberFix. Its a water activated tape. On it the handle was cut at much less of an angle and the male end had two small plugs showing on it that were toothpicks used to hold it together while applying the tape.

[bubby]

There are a couple of build a longs in the how to section, i know big jim recesses his but those bows are made from that material not to be lol

[Peacebow_Coos]

That fiber fix is the real deal, never thought about sleeves from it though....

[mikekeswick]

Watch Big Jims videos on youtube. Learn from the master! I've done about 15 of these now and it is a great system but follow exactly what he says to get it right.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I gave my first attempt at the glass takedown sleeve. And I messed up something, we even tied each limb to a truck to try pulling it apart and it didn't budge. Atleast I know it's strong.  I think I made te counter sunk spots a little too large. Between that and the mild grip of the epoxy to the waxed wood. It didn't budge. I'm going to try shocking it loose with light arrows then trying to pull it apart with a come along. If that doesn't work, I'll grind it off and find the issue before trying again.

Kyle

[Jim Davis]

I much prefer a round steel sleeve with the limb ends cut at 90 degrees. Nice trim handle and easy takedown.

[GlisGlis]

Between that and the mild grip of the epoxy to the waxed wood

I'd rather use food wrap to avoid wood attaching to epoxy

[Del the cat]

Better to do less angle and don't recess the back.

+1
The one I did on boo backed Yew lasted a while, but I'd cut into the back and she blew... Very embarrassing on the shooting line  
Keep the male part good and long, cos that's the bit that will fail if it's going to.
Del

[willie]

see

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http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/Uploads/PVAhairspray.pdf
they also make something called "879 release fabric" better known as peelply

if the fiberfix is half as good as the video, let us know

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haPvuhznuyI

[PatM]

Wax is fine if done properly. You'll have a hard time making a release fabric etc. work. It needs to be a sealed smooth surface. Fabrics and membranes will just bulk things up and epoxy will get under them. 

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I havnt got it pulled apart yet. But I went ahead on shot it a bit. As soon as I braced it the glass popped free of the wood that was waxed, so that did its job. Where I widened the aligbment holes I think I made them too deep and it mechanically locked. I'm debating between trying to drill out the buttons, or rasp off the sleeve and start over.

Kyle

[willie]

if done properly.

Hope you can be there to make sure it is done properly, Pat. I have had some aggravating failures just like reported, using just wax, so the search for something better is not wasted effort.

Mo, looking closer, a small shoulder like you proposed should be fine if the rest is tapered. I would also have some dedicated additional circular wraps at the ends, if using warp and weft type fabric.

[PatM]

Mold release wax is the industry standard for a reason. If you can't make wax work chances are membranes and release fabrics won't either.