Finally beginning the tillering process (very early stages)

[Kalvek]

So I've finally got my tillering stick made and flemish string with a timber hitch made. I think my finger is recovered enough from a run in with my Shinto that I can move it without pain now, so that was the only thing holding me back last week.

I just wanted to ask people here, once I improvise a way to hold my board in place for shaving down with the Shinto, if this is too much wood to be removing initially from each limb before I take it slower to get to the draw weight I want (roughly #20, since it's for a friend who's never owned a bow in her life before)? For reference, I'm trying to follow Sam Harper's build along, but I'm not sure if I want to do the rounding to the extent that he did, yet (I've heard a flat bellied bow is a bit safer for a first timer, since a round belly bow can develop chrysals if you're not careful).

I'm also not exactly sure what to make of the image on Sam's build along on page 4 once the handle block is added. It looks like the limb thickness fades into the handle (not sure if I'm using that term right here), but at the same time, I see a second line that slopes off sharply from the handle. (it's the 5th image on the page, right under "roughing out the handle")

Once again I appreciate any help offered. One of these days I won't have to ask so many questions.

Edit: I can see from the size of the image that the pencil line isn't as visible as when I was editing it. For reference, I measured 3/8 in. from the end of the bow and tapered that up to where the handle is going to be glued on. So all the wood left of the line would be removed.

[mikekeswick]

A drawknife or spokeshave will remove that wood better than just a rasp. A rasp will work but will take forever! Even a small axe or machete would be better to remove the meat. Or find someone with a bandsaw.

[George Tsoukalas]

I usually make light bows as tall as the person and about an inch wide when using bows.
There are buildalongs on my site. I have never used a shintorasp.
Jawge
http://traditionalarchery101.com

[Kalvek]

Thanks for the advice, Mike. Do you have a recommended brand of drawknife or spokeshave that's relatively affordable while being of at least decent quality? I've heard that the Stanley ones aren't so good. I don't actually have a lot of tools at my disposal right now, and am trying to complete the project without spending too much more.

Jawge -- The bow is actually 1.5 inches wide, I believe, and is only narrowed to the nocks the last 12 inches or so. This is just a view from the side of the bow. As far as it's height, I believe that the board right now is about as tall as the future recipient of the bow is. I hope I don't offend by continuing to reference another build along -- I have found a lot of great information on your site, including information about backing a bow, which I intend to reference when I go to back the bow. The only reason I'm following this other build is because it includes a cut out shelf, which I think my friend might prefer since she's still new to archery, and shooting off the hand might be intimidating to a newbie. I do hope you understand -- I actually think it's great that you've compiled so much information and fully intend to reference your site when looking for future build ideas once I'm more established. Right now, though, I have to finish the bow by the 26th because of some things that are coming up rather quickly in my life.

On that note, however, might you have any advice on finding good/affordable tools for the future? I currently don't have a spokeshave, drawknife, scrapers, bandsaw, any kind of power tools other than a drill, or a vice/shavehorse to hold what I'm working on. I actually just saw your bow bench page, so I think I'll be building one of those in the future, but I don't think I see a consolidated post on tools, though I may just be missing information that is in the various articles you've written.

[DC]

Try to find an old draw knife. Flea markets, auctions, that kind of things. New one just don't seem to take/keep an edge.