When is a bow done

[gfugal]

What steps do you take before you finish a bow. Obviously you tiller the bow to the desired draw length and weight and i've also heard of shooting a hundred arrows through it first, but what other steps do you do to ensure the bow will hold up?

Do you think a hundred arrows is enough? Also, I'm thinking maybe you should tiller two or so inches past the draw length just in case it's overdrawn a bit. Another thing, i know you're not supposed to leave a bow on the tillering tree for a long time when tillering to prevent set, but what about when you're done? When we're aiming we tend to hold it for a few seconds before loosing the arrow. Especially if you're hunting and waiting for that shot, or if you give your bow to someone and you don't know how long they hold it while aiming. I'm wondering of you should do a hold test for like 5-10 seconds at full draw?

[loon]

5 seconds is the most I'd hold a bow, unless hunting maybe.

[Pat B]

I release as soon as I hit anchor. If I find myself snap shooting I will hold for a second, maybe 2 but not more than that. Beyond that the longer I hold the worse the shot will be. When I was shooting a lot most times I didn't remember the actual draw and shot but concentrated on the target and let my brain and muscle memory take the reins.
 After you have shot in your bow and everything is good start sanding until you are ready to add the finish. After that, just enjoy your creation.

[bradsmith2010]

dont tiller past the intended draw
dont hold it for 5 to 10 seconds,,
if you givinig it to someone,, shoot it more than 100 times,, and give them instuctions on how to shoot and care for the bow,,
if the bow is made well,,, and you had to hold it for a hunting shot, it will hold up, but no need to stress the bow out for no reason,,
if you are making the bow for someone that has a long hold,, then overbuild the design to accomodate that,,,,,

[bjrogg]

I suspect it's a little different for everyone. Myself I like to get a good looking tiller out to about a inch shy of my intended draw length. Then I like to slowly shoot it in. I like to feel the bow in my hands and not just look at it on the tree. I alternate between shooting,scrapping, and tree. I myself never draw past intended draw length on tree or by hand. I don't hold either. For hunting I don't draw till I'm ready to shoot. I try to concentrate on that spot and when the shot is right it the draw just happens. This is way different than any other hunting I have done. You can't just watch the animals and then draw the bow hold it waiting for shoot then aim and release. ( at least I can't) There comes a time that you have to quit watching the animals and concentrate on the spot. I learned that the hard way. I always shoot a bow at least 300x before putting any skins on. I shoot my first bow at least 150x before I stupidly broke it overdrawing a poorly tillered bow. That's what seems to work for me. I'm sure you will develop your own routine.
Bjrogg

[Dances with squirrels]

I tiller to full draw on the tree with the limbs balanced relative to my fulcrums assuming a 3/8" high nocking point. When the tiller is as good as I can get it, and it's been sanded smooth, it gets a good workout on the tree of 75-100 draws, and then I go shoot it. As long as there are no surprises, I shoot it at least 200 times over a couple days, alternately leaving it braced for an hour or so, and unstringing it to let it rest. Then it's inspected closely for any tiny tools marks or scratches I may have missed, final sand, go through the finishing process, put leather on the grip and arrow plate, make a new string, install silencers if it has proven itself worthy of a hunting bow, and it's done.

[George Tsoukalas]

I tiller 1 inch under my draw, shape the handle and then shoot it 3 down times. Check the tiller on the rope and pulley and have some one take a digi at full draw.

I remove nicks with a scraper and/or knife.

Sand it with 100, 220, 300, 600 and 700 grit. When I get to the 220 grit. I dampen the bow with wet paper towel, let dry and sand again. Repeat until no more grain is raised and continue with the other grits.

Then I finish it.

Jawge

[BowEd]

I'd say that's about as safe and secure a way of doing it there is.
One main thing I don't like is surprises so putting it though the rigors of being a bow before hand before going to someone else or for myself.Observing the amount of set a bow takes during tillering and shooting in too a person can get a feel on a paticular piece of wood as to how it's handling the draw weight/length and design.
If everything is honky dory on the bow at full draw after a 100 grit sanding/shot in a good 200 arrows/braced a few times 3 to 4 hours at a time/multiple testing of poundage on tillering tree and it holds the tiller good I trust it and sand it to finish with 220.This over a period of a good week or two.Most times I tiller mine 1/2" to an 1" past my draw length also.Personally I don't think it makes any difference whether it's used for hunting or target shooting the same is done.Maybe a fancier finish put on one if it is'nt going to be used for hunting is all.
I've gone as far as 0000 steel wool finishing too but don't think it's necessary.I fully admit I'm not the best finish man so whatever works for someone else there it's good.

[bjrogg]

I'd say that's about as safe and secure a way of doing it there is.
One main thing I don't like is surprises so putting it though the rigors of being a bow before hand before going to someone else or for myself.Observing the amount of set a bow takes during tillering and shooting in too a person can get a feel on a paticular piece of wood as to how it's handling the draw weight/length and design.
If everything is honky dory on the bow at full draw after a 100 grit sanding/shot in a good 200 arrows/braced a few times 3 to 4 hours at a time/multiple testing of poundage on tillering tree and it holds the tiller good I trust it and sand it to finish with 220.This over a period of a good week or two.Most times I tiller mine 1/2" to an 1" past my draw length also.Personally I don't think it makes any difference whether it's used for hunting or target shooting the same is done.Maybe a fancier finish put on one if it is'nt going to be used for hunting is all.
I've gone as far as 0000 steel wool finishing too but don't think it's necessary.I fully admit I'm not the best finish man so whatever works for someone else there it's good.

You sure build some dang nice bows though
Bjrogg

[gfugal]

Thanks for the input guys. The reason I ask is because this happened.    I got the bow tillered out to 30 inches with a 40 lb draw, but I noticed that sometimes it would make a creaking noise and the draw weight would fall slightly if I held it out for more than a second. It probably would have broken anyway before I got a 100 shots through it, but I thought I would do a hold test at full draw to be safe. I'd rather have it break on the tree than my hand and sure enough it broke after about 5 seconds. It's a shame since it was such a good looking bow. Although it broke in the exact spot I thought it would. When I was first bracing it I heard a faint crack as I tried to string it and it pulled up a slight sliver that I could feel under the paper backing. That was when I was still trying to aim for a 60 lb bow so I figure it was way too stressed for the design. I got the limbs bending 7.5 inches with a long string at 60 lbs so I thought it could handle a 6-inch brace but I guess I was wrong. After that, it was merely a hopeful endeavor to get it finished. I applied another layer of backing (this time linen) and continued tillering. So do you think I made a mistake by holding it at full draw, or do you feel like me that it would have broken anyway?

[bjrogg]

Hard to say for positive but it sounds like it probably got hurt bracing it. Once I splinter pops up on back pretty hard to save em.
Bjrogg

[BowEd]

bjrogg....Your bows are right up there.You've got that HHB wood dialed in I'd say.Beautiful bows.
gfugal...The alarming warning sign to me would have been like you said the poundage going down at full draw.An indcator the wood is breakng down.It should go up of course.
I feel it would have broke anyway the way it was over time.Really any stable bow should be able to handle a full 1 second hold at full draw but that might be up for debate by some.That's just me.I don't shoot with a full 1 second hold though.At most 1/2 second and even less.I do hold it on the tillering tree to test it that way at times though.Like you said.
Sorry to see that happen though.Lesser draw weight and shorter draw would of been the only way it would of survived I'd say.Possibly next time wider and thinner limbs might do the trick if the same length.Otherwise longer overall.If that's juniper I'm not familiar with that wood much besides using red cedar so take my comments with a grain of salt.

[gfugal]

I think the bow would have handled the 40lbs@30" if it didn't get that splinter early on since I tried breaking the other limb out of curiosity. Bent it as far as I could, even farther than what it was at 30" but I wasn't strong enough and it was really starting to scare me. It held up, so I think it was because of the splinter from bracing. but the fact that it did splinter before means that 60 lbs was too much for the design with the big hooks and everything. Especially, since it was a red oak board from the hardware store. It probably had some sort of violation on the back at that spot. This was the oak bow I was talking about in the why did I get set topic a while ago. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,59728.msg830263.html#msg830263

[bjrogg]

Not trying to be a a$$hole  but sometimes I have to laugh at myself. I remember the first time I did some major remodeling in my old farmhouse. A neighbor asked me when I'd be done with my house. I said when I dig a hole and bury it. I guess your probably done with that bow. Take what you learned from it and start another. One other thing bracing these bow can be really tricky. It's easy to damage them if you don't do everything perfect. My buddy found that out to.
Bjrogg