Tiller check please

[Stick Bender]

Ok here is a little more scraping in the lower fade & reverse draw

[Stick Bender]

Reverse

[George Tsoukalas]

The last 2 photos look good. Very nice. Jawge

[Stick Bender]

Thanks George closing in on it trying to make a lighter 45-47 lb hunting bow for late season sub temp hunting at 60 seasons old the sub temps are killing me with the heaver bows !

[DC]

I just spent a few minutes and put these pictures into my Windows10 picture viewer. I rotated and flipped and fiddled around and I think I'm with Jawge. Something that made it easier to look at was slightly rotating the pics to get the tips vertical. Your second pic is leaning forward more than the first.

[Stick Bender]

Ok thanks there Mr DC think im going to call it a day & start back tomorrow took the thicknesse on the tips down & with in 3/4 oz of mass still have to cut the handle & more on the tips I think im going to make Badgers numbers or below still need to lose a little weight also .

[upstatenybowyer]

Looks good to me. For me, these are tricky bows to tiller. Not much room for error with such a short working area. Nice work.

[make-n-break]

Looks pretty good from here. When I get one to where you're at I'll fling a few arrows both ways --top-bottom/bottom-top -- to see which way feels better and finish the handle accordingly. I've got one bow with a little negative tiller that shoots real sweet.

[BowEd]

Pics look good Ritch.You'll be surprised as to how much more mass your gonna lose fitting your handle and reducing your tips.Losing three pounds on those limbs is'nt much either.Almost just a positive tiller adjustment is all.Nice bow.I like it.

[Stick Bender]

Ok thanks Ed came in at 20.67 Oz got the tips and thickness  scary thin hit target weight @47 lb she is shooting hard even with the tiller string Im going to the range tomorrow for shoot in & once I get it cleaned up & a FF string I will chrony it & post

[Stick Bender]

Well took this bow to the range for shoot in & found it very stable on realease once I found the knocking sweet spot it was stacking arrows in the kill zone on plastic critters but after about 50 arrows or so I noticed a small splinter on the out side of a pin knot it was pretty brittle wood in that area so I just scrapped it away and stoped shooting I have to decide if I want to patch or raw hide the whole bow ithe ring is knot delaminated or any thing like that , here is a full draw to 29 in. But knocked to high in the pic the bow is still holding reflex and shooting nice.

[Stick Bender]

Splinter area

[George Tsoukalas]

I've had that happen and I did what you did...just scraped it away.
But you have a knot there which is problematic.

For next time...

Knotted areas should be left a little wider. Let the grain swirl around it.
When tillering a knotted area, let it appear flatter than the rest of the limb.
I know that advice is contrary to the perfect tiller picture we often crave.

So what do you do now?

I think you have 2 or 3 options.

One...you can wait and see what happens. But it may break there.

Two...wrap it with sinew set in hide glue or nylon thread set in Duco.

Sinew wrap or rawhide wrap the bow.

Jawge

[DC]

I had a Yew bow do much the same thing, it lifted a bit of wood right on the corner. I posted it here and was told that my corners weren't rounded enough. It looks to me like you might be suffering from the same thing. Corners should have at least the radius of a pea.

[Stick Bender]

Ok thanks guys it's hard to see in the pic but that pin is sitting in a hollow & came up to a sharp edge so I was afraid to round it out any more then I did , I'm going to do a combed flax feathered patch like the Beadman did in his thread & raw hide it ,this bow is shooting to nice I'm going the belt & suspenders route  this stave was really narrow & didn't  have any extra wood to leave around that knot,  in hind site I probably should have raw hided from the start  but at least I caught it before it got ugly.