Naw, you can do it, Lee!
It's not going to be exactly the same, but find a bow you like the looks of and copy it. Get general measurements. Something like a pyramid bow is pretty predictable, despite the front and back crown. Get good, wide bamboo and carefully shape and flatten the backing. Leave the belly parallel, but the nodes will be there obviously. I knock the nodes down, but don't mill them totally smooth in line with the rest of the bamboo. Worked down, not totally leveled. Get the pith side flat enough that the bridges of the nodes disappear.
When you temper the belly lam from the outside with a heat gun, the bamboo usually flattens laterally, slightly. I mean it will start off looking like it came from a 4" diameter stalk, and have the curve of a 5" diameter stalk at the end.
One good trick is a two stage glue up. Glue the tapered core to the bamboo belly, shape the front profile roughly, and give it just a few inches of flex. Remember the old rule of thumb about "twice as thick is eight times as stiff"? Use that as a general guideline. If the bow is 3/8" thick at the handle and 1/4" thick at the tips, but bends too much out at the tips, maybe your bamboo back should be 1/8" thick all along. That adds 33.33% more thickness by the handle, but 50% to the tips, adding thickness PROPORTIONALLY . If the middle bends too much, taper your backing so you add more to the inner and middle.
Design rules apply. If you have strongly crowned bamboo, make a narrow longbow type. I also matched up my slats and placed belly nodes between back nodes rather that straight across.
Then hack your way through side tillering. Good luck.
