Author Topic: English Longbow Help (with image)  (Read 16158 times)

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Offline willie

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Re: English Longbow Help (with image)
« Reply #30 on: December 16, 2016, 08:29:08 pm »
yes, if we also want to have a bow with constant fiber stress, then limb bend shape is dictated by thickness. There are also places along the limb where we might want to have less than max strain. I am thinking of many designs where it is desired to keep the center and/or the tips bending slightly less, especially during the tillering process. These stiffer areas can be said to have less strain. Are you looking to build something like the ELB presented above? I recall you working exclusively with constant thickness pyramids in the past? The design I posted above,(tips @ 1/2 the thickness at the center of the bow) allows for a mid handle strain that is 90% of the max strain at midlimb. I by no means claim to know much about ELB design or tillering, and suggest the taper as a starting point for development. Perhaps some of the bowyers from across the pond would be willing to offer descriptions of tapers used in established designs. If I remember correctly, I have seen designs that start the width taper closer to the handle area, and so may not have a straightline taper in thickness, but perhaps reduce the rate of taper out towards the tips.
« Last Edit: December 16, 2016, 10:10:25 pm by willie »

mikekeswick

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Re: English Longbow Help (with image)
« Reply #31 on: December 17, 2016, 06:47:06 am »
When I was making a lot of ipe elbs my width taper was - 1" wide parallel for the 4 inch handle and 4 inch either side (12" total parallel width), then taper to 3/4 inch 12 from the nocks then taper to 3/8th at the nocks. 72ntn bow. My thickness taper started directly from the end of the handle to 3/8ths at the nocks.
I would make the tiller a little more elliptical and the handle stiffer on the lower weights. 

mikekeswick

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Re: English Longbow Help (with image)
« Reply #32 on: December 17, 2016, 07:00:02 am »
Wooden Spring - well said :) At the end of the day any piece of woods thickness determines how far it can bend all other things being equal. In our field watching set is the laymans way of 'seeing' the fiber strain.

Offline Wooden Spring

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Re: English Longbow Help (with image)
« Reply #33 on: December 18, 2016, 07:13:43 pm »
Wooden Spring - well said :) At the end of the day any piece of woods thickness determines how far it can bend all other things being equal. In our field watching set is the laymans way of 'seeing' the fiber strain.

Absolutely, and don't forget that while we are watching set as an indicator of fiber stress, since most woods are stronger in tension than they are in compression, one can always reduce set by narrowing the back of the bow about 10-15% of the belly width.
"Everything that moves shall be food for you..." Genesis 9:3

mikekeswick

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Re: English Longbow Help (with image)
« Reply #34 on: December 19, 2016, 04:52:03 am »
Again I agree totally. I see very few bows with trapped backs. I also think this is a major factor in a lot people being 'down' on woods like red oak, ash ect trapping these woods enough makes a huge difference to the set in the finished bow. I started making my ash (fraxinus excelsior)bows with backs about half the width of the belly just to see if they would fail in tension yet they never did.

Offline loon

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Re: English Longbow Help (with image)
« Reply #35 on: January 23, 2017, 07:02:09 pm »
Might be good to have a D cross section with "meane" wood bows, but with the back rounded rather than the belly..

Offline WillS

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Re: English Longbow Help (with image)
« Reply #36 on: January 23, 2017, 07:35:15 pm »
That's done quite often with heavy meane wood bows, in particular hazel and plum.  Even woods like elm respond well to the reverse D section, however.