mollegabet board bow

[willie]

I lay the bow on its side and trace the curve of the back, unstrung, before I start tillering. Of course if it's is a board bow, then I have drawn, pretty much,  a straight line. After bending the bow on the long string, or after immediately after un-stringing if it has been braced, I retrace (overlay) the curve again, in order to see precisely where along the limb the set is occurring. It is not enough to just gauge the overall string follow from the position of the tips. Knowing just where the set is occurring tells you much about where (or not) to work so much. These tracings are especially helpful on a stave with natural humps and hollows, but the technique works equally well on a board bow with working limbs that are not equally strained throughout. Assuring that the set happens where you want to, helps you optimize the design. Some will advocate for more set further out on the limb, rather than close to the fade, although with a short working limb like the mollegabet, having the set evenly distributed along the working limb might be the best you could hope for.
I use freezer paper taped to a piece of plywood, with two fixed stops for the tips and use a circular gage block with a sharp pencil to follow the limb.
 
 

[rps3]

I used a tan skin once. I wont do it again. I cleaned them with antifreeze if I remember right. What I don't like about the skins I used is that they seem to change color when the bow gets wet, appearing to soak up and hold water, and that's the last thing you want, especially if over sinew.

[Zedd]

I used a tan skin once. I wont do it again. I cleaned them with antifreeze if I remember right. What I don't like about the skins I used is that they seem to change color when the bow gets wet, appearing to soak up and hold water, and that's the last thing you want, especially if over sinew.

Thanks for that information, I will keep my eye on that. My real passion is making split bamboo fly rods and have used a wonderful wood penetrate/conditioner/sealer from Daly's called Ship n Shore. I have used these Ship n Shore finished bamboo rods in all kinds of weather from hot steamy Texas summer days to sleaty and snowy miserably cold days wade and kayak fishing for striped bass and have never noticed any kind of absorption of water on either my bamboo or my grips (both cork and ratton). Besides leaving a lovely, natural looking flawless finish, Daly's claims Ship n Shore hardens wood 14-25%. (I have no stake in Daly's other than a happy customer). Daly's says Ship n Shore only needs two coats, I put four on mine (and on the split bamboo rods I dip the rods for 24 hours with never a glue failure).

[bubby]

Rps3 anti freeze is what you tan skins with not clean them, the glycerine is qhat soes it

[rps3]

Well bubby, I either handled them wrong or remembered what I did incorrectly.  I know I did a lot of research before I used them, and I may be a bit confused. They have stuck to the bow real well after heavy use, which was my main concern , but still have that color change when the bow gets wet.