My board bow (build along?)

[Marin]

I'm going for 45 lbs. I'm going g to reduce it once I get to 45 lbs.
 I also decided that I'm going to trap the belly. I realize that is probably for the better and it won't take that long.
And you can leave it string while you work on it? Won't that cause it to set though? And do you ever find your self having to retie the knot as it gets looser and the brace height shrinks?

[Knoll]

Because red oak is bit weak in compression, I've trapped the back . . . but not the belly.

[H Rhodes]

Well, you are making progress!   I won't offer much advice since you are already being coached by some of the best.  You are approaching twenty inches of draw length, so in my opinion, it is time to think toward how you will check your tiller as you approach the final draw length.  I never leave a bow drawn with the string hung on a peg long enough to change hands and pick up the camera and take a photo.  It is okay to do that when the bow is drawn up to twenty inches or so.  After twenty inches, I shy away from that practice.  I believe it can over strain a self bow's belly and induce too much set.  I go to a pulley on the floor and a rope hooked to the bowstring.  If you have someone else to photograph the bow for your tillering critiques, and never draw the bow back for more than a couple of seconds, it can add life to your bow.  I like a flat white background with some horizontal lines draw on it to help gauge how my limbs are bending.  Keep reducing weight until you hit your target 45lbs at 27" of draw.  Then with your final sanding before finishing it will come in just right.   or it will bust all to heck and you can grab another piece of wood and start over...  

[bubby]

Yeah like knoll said if you trap it trap the back, that will drop the weight as well. I don't think the timber hitch is slipping if it is tied right, but as you scrape wood the brace hight will get lower. Try for 20lbs at 20" that should set you up for 45# figuing 3lbs an inch. Now like howatd said about the tree, once the tiller is good at 20" what i do is start shooting it at short draw, say 25 arrows at 20" then i just gradually work it out to full draw, have someone take a pic about 24" with an arrow nocked and put a pc of tape on the string so you nock it in the correct spot , say the thickness of the arrow aboce center, you got this about wrapped up, round up the handle some before you shoot it so you dont shoot the feathers off

[Stick Bender]

Looking Good 

[bjrogg]

Your getting to the fun part Marin, good luck I'm just gonna let Bubby give you advice now. Can't wait to see you shooting that bow. Bet your gonna have a big chezzie grin in that full draw picture.
Bjrogg

[Marin]

sorry, I meant trapped the back 
Still new at this.

[Marin]

So once I got it bending evenly at 20 lbs at 20" I can just gradually shoot it at different draw lengths? I don't have to continue using the tree (in theory)?

[bubby]

That is how i do it, i have found that on a straight forward stave with little character,  that the tiller  rarely changes past this point and especially with a board, but like i said have someone take a pic when you get to 24-25" just to be safe

[Marin]

Oh and since I'm trapping the back, shouldn't I be targeting for 25 lbs at 20"  and then trap the back before shooting?

[bubby]

Trap the back  first

[Marin]

And target for a higher weight?

[bubby]

Trap the back, xheck the weight, get it to the weight you want, then procede😉

[Marin]

I know I asked this brides but before I trap I just need to verify, so I am sanding off a chamfer with a constant width of 1/4" and angle of 45 degrees from tip to tip?

[bubby]

I know I asked this brides but before I trap I just need to verify, so I am sanding off a chamfer with a constant width of 1/4" and angle of 45 degrees from tip to tip?

Yeah basically,  i kind of let my chamfer fade out before it gets to the tips, you also want to round off the edges of the chamfer