« previous next »
Pages: 1 2 [3]

Author Topic: osage crack  (Read 6797 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline John Scifres

  • Member
  • Posts: 65
Re: osage crack
« Reply #30 on: April 13, 2016, 12:05:26 pm »
There lots of ways to skin this fish.

I sand the backs on my bows.  I like the way it looks.

You can also get it really nice looking using just a scraper.

You can also get it really pretty by burnishing.  I don't do that too much but when I have, I liked the effect.
Logged

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,633
Re: osage crack
« Reply #31 on: April 13, 2016, 12:17:35 pm »
Unless I've peeled the bark on a whitewood bow I always sand the back, belly, sides, tips and handles. Didn't know I shouldn't.  ;D
Logged
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Eric Krewson

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,432
Re: osage crack
« Reply #32 on: April 13, 2016, 02:18:00 pm »
I do final tillering with an orbital sander followed by hand sanding  because I don't like washboard bellies on my bows.
Logged

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: osage crack
« Reply #33 on: April 13, 2016, 04:30:53 pm »
I sand all my backs and always have. I use a sanding block on the belly to knock off the last 3-5# and rid it of any wash board ripples, same with the fades. I just cant stand rippled fades! Gotta be a smooooove ramp.
Logged
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline JW_Halverson

  • Member
  • Posts: 11,923
Re: osage crack
« Reply #34 on: April 13, 2016, 04:46:11 pm »
Quote from: PEARL DRUMS on April 13, 2016, 04:30:53 pm
I sand all my backs and always have. I use a sanding block on the belly to knock off the last 3-5# and rid it of any wash board ripples, same with the fades. I just cant stand rippled fades! Gotta be a smooooove ramp.

I go all OCD on that same issue.  Drives me batcrap crazy, can't sleep for weeks, teeth sweating, coffee cup jittery, snapping at old ladies in line at the grocery store, mean and ornery. 

Always wondered if that was just my special burden!
Logged
Guns have triggers. Bicycles have wheels. Trees and bows have wooden limbs.

Offline Pappy

  • Global Moderator
  • Member
  • Posts: 32,204
  • if you have to ask you wouldn't understand ,Tenn.
Re: osage crack
« Reply #35 on: April 14, 2016, 04:18:39 am »
Don't like ripples or wash boarding either but can get them out with a scrapper most of the time much better than sanding. Like was said, lots of way to skin a cat. :)
 Pappy
Logged
Clarksville,Tennessee
TwinOaks Bowhunters
Life is Good

Offline Marc St Louis

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 7,877
  • Keep it flexible
    • Marc's Bows and Arrows
Re: osage crack
« Reply #36 on: April 14, 2016, 08:57:41 am »
If you are making bows strictly for yourself then you can do what you want with the back but if your bows are going out to someone for whatever reason then I say better to be safe than sorry
Logged
Home of heat-treating, Corbeil, On.  Canada

Marc@Ironwoodbowyer.com

Offline PatM

  • Member
  • Posts: 6,737
Re: osage crack
« Reply #37 on: April 14, 2016, 11:39:09 am »
I never sand an outer ring back. It's already as smooth as can be.

 Sanding a worked down to growth ring is a bit different because you've already started working on it  to some degree. Leaving a small amount of early wood as a buffer for sanding is your safest bet.
 
  However the woods that are generally worked to a ring are tension strong and a bit more forgiving obviously so it depends what gives you the most peace of mind.
 
  Bamboo is probably the best example you can use for showing what happens when you sand too much.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 [3]
« previous next »