Author Topic: Marks on arrows  (Read 7154 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline loon

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,307
Re: Marks on arrows
« Reply #15 on: January 31, 2016, 10:48:14 pm »
Nocking higher works for me, and makes sense O_o
Good luck tapering the quill gently down to the shaft with flu flus.
How is nocking higher a myth? I don't have to do anything special to my arrows and haven't cut myself in a while.
Well, I guess that works for avoiding getting cut if nocking too low. Or you could use a floppy rest or a leather glove, which could end up messing up the fletchings, probably. I don't mind getting cut once in a while to know I'm nocking too low. As long as I don't get feather buried in my skin...
« Last Edit: January 31, 2016, 11:00:29 pm by loon »

Offline Tuomo

  • Member
  • Posts: 155
    • Puujousi
Re: Marks on arrows
« Reply #16 on: February 01, 2016, 02:00:52 am »
I have filmed these videos with real high speed camera. Hopefully these help!

Nocking point too high:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5j1EoHfjftQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUOuHH9GojQ

Nocking point too low:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKIlomh-kos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6QZKibWbhE

Bareshaft, nocking point too high:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfNXxJwniYE

Bareshaft, nocking point too low:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gI6lf5MDG00

And, the right nocking point!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCsED0f-CV0

Offline jayman448

  • Member
  • Posts: 540
Re: Marks on arrows
« Reply #17 on: February 01, 2016, 02:39:20 am »
Take the shelf off and make it into a real bow.  Your hand won't leave a mark. ;)

haha jee wiz. we shoot trad cuz real bows dont have wheels. then go primitive cuz real bows are wood. now no shelves allowed too? im buggered!! XD haha

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Re: Marks on arrows
« Reply #18 on: February 01, 2016, 12:26:32 pm »
Thanks Tuomo. On the "Nocking too low" vid you can see the back of the arrow drag on the rest just where I said the marks were on my arrows. I will raise the nocking point. I've bookmarked your Youtube page. I've looked for your videos before and had trouble finding them. The color ones are really good. the b&w are a bit grainy for my old eyes. I think there is a lot to be gained by watching these very closely.

When I raise my NP what would be a good increment to move it, 1/32",1/16, 1/2"?? I suspect it will be sensitive but what's the normal try.

Offline bradsmith2010

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,187
Re: Marks on arrows
« Reply #19 on: February 01, 2016, 02:46:54 pm »
its not that complicated
there are lots of variables,,but try to keep it simple
if you change everything at once,, who knows what the issue is

I don't think you said how long your arrows are,, or what your draw is,,,
I would start there,, get the arrow to shoot as good as you can first
then adjust the bow
I would try a 50# spine arrow cut to 28 inches or 29 inches,,,
and move the nocking point up first,, that should do it,,
unless the tiller is way off,,
an unbraced,, braced,, and full draw  photo would help us "guess"  especially the braced for me
« Last Edit: February 01, 2016, 03:40:55 pm by bradsmith2010 »

Offline Urufu_Shinjiro

  • Member
  • Posts: 709
Re: Marks on arrows
« Reply #20 on: February 01, 2016, 05:15:38 pm »
Do a forward khatra!11!

A what????

Lol, I about died! DC, ignore loon and me, we're some those crazy horsebow guys that shoot off the wrong side of the bow with fancy jewelry on our thumbs, lol.

Offline Jim Davis

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,352
  • Reparrows
    • Reparrows
Re: Marks on arrows
« Reply #21 on: February 02, 2016, 12:30:15 am »
Nocking higher works for me, and makes sense O_o
Good luck tapering the quill gently down to the shaft with flu flus.
How is nocking higher a myth? I don't have to do anything special to my arrows and haven't cut myself in a while.
Well, I guess that works for avoiding getting cut if nocking too low. Or you could use a floppy rest or a leather glove, which could end up messing up the fletchings, probably. I don't mind getting cut once in a while to know I'm nocking too low. As long as I don't get feather buried in my skin...

Nocking  higher is not a myth. It being the way to cure feather cuts is the myth. Saxton Pope, Robert Elmer, and most other early archery notables trimmed the quills of their feathers down leaving no abrupt edge that could cut a finger. Then they added a drop of glue to the point of the quill to ease the transition even more and to ensure that the quill did not come loose at the leading end.

If you get cut "once in a while" when nocking too low (and that's the only way you know) something is wrong.

As for trimming flu-flus, if they are straight fletched with 6 feathers, that is no problem. If they are spiral fletched, only one feather has to be trimmed, and that is also not a problem. This image is before the drop of glue is added.
Jim Davis

Kentucky--formerly Maine

Offline Lehtis

  • Member
  • Posts: 347
Re: Marks on arrows
« Reply #22 on: February 02, 2016, 05:50:01 am »
Agree PatM; take the shelf away. It´s unnecessary and many bows seen on these pages with glued on shelves look like they´ve got tumor on otherwise beautiful bow. Modern bows with cut-in shelves are another story.

Offline George Tsoukalas

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,425
    • Traditional and Primitive Archers
Re: Marks on arrows
« Reply #23 on: February 02, 2016, 11:42:27 am »
It sounds like a tuning issue. I wrote an article about how tune selfies for my site.

http://traditionalarchery101.com/selfbowcare.html

Having said that...a few bows ago ...I just could not properly tune the bow, which had a glued on leather shelf, for nearly perfect flight.  I removed the shelf and the arrow flight iproved considerably. PatM's suggestion is a good one to try.

I've always done as Jim suggests. I skyve the leading edge of the fletching. In fact, I wrap that area and the entore area of the fletching as well.

Jawgem
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!