Mulberry build

[E. Jensen]

Morning everyone.  Just wanted to share and get some input on what I've been up to.  I packed everything up, thinking surely I wouldn't want to build and shoot bows in the winter, especially this winter.  But sure enough, -5F and I want to shoot and build bows!!!

Pappy gave me a mulberry stave when I visited last summer, and I had my brother ship it west the other week.  I told the poor kid I wanted it the following week, hoping to encourage him not to put it off or forget.  So he sent it priority so I'd have it the next week.  Good brother, silly me. 

I've been doing this in the university wood shop, not because they have good tools (really not) but just cause it's warm and out of the way.  I've been using my hatchet since there is no great way to hold it down for a draw knife.  I've discovered 3 things.  1) I love using a hatchet for bow building! 2) I did NOT do a good job hafting it lol, 3) My next hatchet will be a hewing hatchet or similar (single bevel).

It's 72" long, marked out for a 66" bow, at right over 1-5/8" wide.  Really nice fat rings.  It's taken to one I'll be taking one more ring off.  What I want is a bend in the handle, shot from center length like an ELB.  My concern is that mulberry won't take a really narrow design.  So my game plan now is 1-1/4" at center, coming out a little wider before tapering in again, and maybe offsetting the string 1-4" from center.

Any input is always welcome

[huisme]

If you offset the string all that will happen is the bow twisting in your hand, probably keeping the arrow just as far off center as it you aligned the string perfectly.

[osage outlaw]

Looks like a nice piece of mulberry.  Good luck with the build.

[Pappy]

Looks like you are coming along nicely, by the way it works good with heat so it shouldn't be a problem to straighten out once it's floor tillered. It will also wind up thicker than Osage even though it looks a lot like it so keep that in mind and don't get it to thin before you start tillering.
 Pappy

[blackhawk]

I think your dimensions are a good starting point if your making it bend in the handle..which im assuming your are

[E. Jensen]

Blackhawk you mean the 1-1/4"?

[blackhawk]

Correctomundo....For starting dimensions 1 1/4" wide at handle till mid limb then taper to 3/8" tips, 66" ntn,and slight bend in the handle. 2 of my favorite bows to shoot,and the ones i shoot best still to this day are 66" narrow slight bend in the handle bows (a hhb,and a maple walnut jatoba trilam). Hard to beat them simple bows imho. Once you have it strung you can even narrow the grip and handle area a tad like around 1 1/8"-1" wide,but just make sure to make it a smooth elongated transition...thats what i do with my slight bendys. Makes a more comfy grip,n the arrow closer to center

[E. Jensen]

Sounds just perfect!

[Chief RID]

I will be watching this one. Good luck!

[George Tsoukalas]

Nice job on layout by following the grain, Mr Jensen.

With these character staves, I leave the handle full width and nocks about an inch wide until full draw, or at least until the first stinging,  to help track the string.

Shape the handle so that  the string tracks better. That is remove wood more from one side than the other at the handle. Cut the nocks deeper on the offending side to bring the string toward the center of the handle.

That coupled with some heat should help.

Jawge

[TimPotter]

I like the lay out of this stave and your tool choices are my favorite as well. Looks like a real good piece of mulberry too. I'll be following this with interest.