Thanks Clint, you know I'm not above advice and constructive criticism
Here what I've done with this bow:
The center of the bow is where the web between my thumb and palm will touch the bow. With the way I hold a bow that's the only part of my hand that makes contact with the handle. The arrow past will be 1 1/4" inches above center. The handle below center is 3". The fade for the upper limb is 3 inches long. The fade for the lower limb is 1 1/2 inches long. I will do a double nock groove on the upper limb to facilitate the use of stringer, in case this bow goes to a newby archer. So to sum up this design. I will be holding the bow at the center, with the extended upper limb fade and the extended nock overlay, each limb with be the same length. I tried this design a couple years ago with a red oak board bow trade. I liked the way that bow shot.
Most of the bows I've made have taken a little set about a 1/3 of the way up the working part of the limb. I'm really concentrating on more bend out of the fades to that point and more bend from that point toward the tips. Definition of insanity is to keep doing the same thing and expecting a different outcome.
This bow has more aggressively flipped tips than I've done before.
Issues: The bow still has some humps and valleys in the up limb. One valley in upper limb on the straight section. And 2 valleys on the inside of the "S" curves of the upper limb. I'm trying to keep the lower part of the valley slightly thinner than the high side is. The thought is maybe it will flatten itself out a little more during the tillering process. I will be monitoring string alignment through out the process. I'm probably way over thinking this process. haha Chime in with your thoughts.
Gutshot, good luck with bow 2. If any of us can be of help, don't hesitate posting pictures here or messaging or emailing us for suggestions. I've learned so much from friends on this forum and I'm still learning.
