OK I cut side nocks on the offending limb. It didn't fix it but I do feel more confidant that it's on center. I shone a laser down the string and it looked like the string had a bit of a bend where it left the bow. One more heat tweak and now it seems good. It doesn't throw the string so I can at least continue tillering. I've got about 7-8 inches to go. As long as the alignment stays I should get that done tonight.
Bow101- I don't think that piking this made a lot of difference except in the string stability. The string still lifts of at the same draw so up to there nothing changes. After lift off the bow is shorter so it's harder to pull but since I haven't tillered that part yet it's kind of a non-issue. It's different than it would have been but it may have been too unstable to shoot.
Pat- I like to cut the whole nock at once so it all lines up nice. It just seems easier to me. Less chance for something to go west. I don't know why I dislike bridges so much, they're fine on horn bows. I guess if the design of a bow was deliberately such that there was no way the string would stay on without them I could do it. This was supposed to be a simple R/D bow. I started out with way to much D and when I took some of that out I had to much R. I know now that I want to keep the deflex down to 1 1/2 to maybe 2".
Thanks everyone that helped. I learned a few things on this one and that's what it's all about
