Minimum tree width

[ccase39]

After 7 board bows I am ready to try my hand at stave building. A generous member is going to send me a stave to work with for the cost of shipping. I would like to go ahead and cut a tree or two to start aging. I have plenty of oaks around and maybe a few hickories or elms. Im sure I will need help identifying them as they all look the same to me lol. what is the minumum diameter of tree I should cut?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Hard to beat a 3-4" elm sapling. You will get two bows and the younger wood, in my opinion, is better and more resilient. Let the oaks grow and make acorns for you to hunt over with your elm bows.

[ccase39]

what about hickory or oak saplings?

[PatM]

Hickory and Oak provide more while alive while Elm tends to not live long enough to leave its mark.
 Plus it's better bow wood and more versatile.

[bowandarrow473]

Minimum is about 1.5 in in diameter but I prefer 3-5 inch saplings for bows. But a bow from a 1.5 in sapling of hickory or elm will be just fine.

[PlanB]

I have a clump of elm saplings of the right size that I want to cut, and some staves I can use in the mean time. Should I wait until spring to cut them so the bark doesn't stick? Otherwise I'll cut them now.

[bowandarrow473]

Cut them now, the bark shouldn't stuck to bad right now.

[Jim Davis]

Hard to beat a 3-4" elm sapling. You will get two bows and the younger wood, in my opinion, is better and more resilient. Let the oaks grow and make acorns for you to hunt over with your elm bows.

Just wanted to note that since we use the wood right under the bark (the most recent growth rings) the wood we use from a 10" trunk is the same age as the wood we use from a 3" sapling...

[PatM]

Hard to beat a 3-4" elm sapling. You will get two bows and the younger wood, in my opinion, is better and more resilient. Let the oaks grow and make acorns for you to hunt over with your elm bows.

Just wanted to note that since we use the wood right under the bark (the most recent growth rings) the wood we use from a 10" trunk is the same age as the wood we use from a 3" sapling...

 Yes, and the skin of  an 80 year old is the same age as a newborn.

[Pat B]

Asharrow, the difference being the amount of crown on the back. Some woods can take the stresses down the crown where others need a flatter back to spread out the stresses along and across the back.

[riverrat]

make a self bow. tiller the belly flat. its easier that way.youll learn things as time goes on. Tony

[Jim Davis]

Asharrow, the difference being the amount of crown on the back. Some woods can take the stresses down the crown where others need a flatter back to spread out the stresses along and across the back.

Yes, Pat. I was only commenting on your drawing attention to "younger" wood.

[ekalavya]

In case you believe in "don't ever hurt the back" and "carefully remove the bark"
... you probably want a tree with larger diameter , because it would make a more
efficient pyramide bow ....
(that's by definition .... or derived from it ....)

However beginners here and board bow makers , they obviously got other preferences.

By reading you probably came across 2.5 or 3.5 " inches diameter ... or lets say four fingers
or a hand palm to cover ... however i just mention "take a string and put it around the tree
and then measure its length" (it's more reliable)

Ask yourself "can i split the tree" (makes less work) or the wood doesn't like it like e.g. hazelnut ...
and when you split it ask yourself can I split it one time (more work) or two times (less work) ...

[Springbuck]

Hard to beat a 3-4" elm sapling. You will get two bows and the younger wood, in my opinion, is better and more resilient. Let the oaks grow and make acorns for you to hunt over with your elm bows.

I second the motion!  Staves from saplings like to warp like hell when drying, but if you can find a BIG elm tree, look around for her babies growing in a clump or under the shade of larger trees.  3" is perfect, and over 5" I think you are just making more work for yourself.  Often a sapling will have one perfect side and one side that has a branch in the wrong place.  I cut em anyway.

[Pat B]

If you know the pole is straight(without a barber pole twist) you can saw it in half, lengthwise, then bind the halves back together with spacers between for good air circulation. This will let it season without warping or twisting. Later, after it is seasoned you can shape your bow and add reflex as you temper the belly with heat.