Tiller Help Please!

[mikekeswick]

It doesn't matter one jot what your width taper is like you simply have to make the tiller correct for the width taper you use.
Pearl - If the tiller is correct there is no reason for the bow to be 'doggy and jumpy'. I don't understand how you get to that conclusion? It will be IF he doesn't get the outers bending correctly but any bow will not shoot great if it's not bending correctly.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Make a bow that doesn't have a width taper and you'll know why Mike.

[ajbruggink]

My guess is that washer takes up and lets out string as he wraps it round.

Yes, its used to shorten the string so that you can go from long string, no slack, half brace, full brace, depending on how much you wrap the string, and it works well.

Thanks for the replies and your advice so far, guys. I will make a tillering gizmo/cheater tool before I go any further. One question:
Should I fix the hinge in the left limb before I start tapering the limbs more or can I do it afterwards? I plan on tapering the limbs from mid-limb width now because I feel it will be easier.

[Josh B]

Yes sir.  Fix the hinge before you go any further.  Josh

[mikekeswick]

Make a bow that doesn't have a width taper and you'll know why Mike.

That wasn't what I said at all  And i've made plenty of bows that only taper in width over the last few inches of limb and they shoot just as well as any other design.............I just don't think that onesize fits all throw away comments help anybody to understand the main principles behind bow making. Pyramids with circular tillers to full on highly elliptical tillers will all do 170fps + IF you tiller them correctly the point I was making is that if a bow is made correctly eg. the tiller shape reflects the width profile they will all shoot the same.....I know this to be true because I'm talking from personal experience. If your bows are 'doggy' when made like this I would respectfully say that you need to get them bending correctly