Spine advise

[E. Jensen]

Hi, I'm building a bow for a friend's wife.  It will be 30# @ 26".  No shelf, about 1/2" offset or a little less.  I've had luck with 15# under my draw weight but that was for 65#.  15# for a 30# bow?  Not even sure if shafts come that low?  What do you all recommend?

[aaron]

With those specs you want the weakest shafts you can find.:
Using heavy points and leave the shafts long will help.
Big feathers will smooth out flight as well.

[E. Jensen]

It is going to a first time archer and the bow probably should not be overdrawn past 26 so I thought 27" arrows would be a good safeguard.  But I also don't want them to shoot like crap.  I shoulda put a shelf in . . . . .

[ajbruggink]

So when you say 1/2" offset, you're saying 1/2" off center right?

[JoJoDapyro]

Why wouldn't they make arrows that light? What about the wood jobs they sell at the big stores?

[Pat B]

Will you be using arrows(store bought arrows or shafts) of known spine? if so leave them long, 28" or even more. For each inch over 28" you reduce the effective spine by 5# per inch. My arrows are 4" longer than my draw length.

[E. Jensen]

I'll be getting the shafts from 3Rivers and putting them together.  I guess I could make them long and just put a mark or something for the draw

[Pat B]

You might ask 3Rivers for suggestions for a bow of the weight you will get the arrows for.

[aaron]

yes, make them long- some of the 3R shafts are up to 31 inches. It's really no problem to have someone who draws 26 to shoot a 29 or longer arrow, if that's what it takes to get good arrow flight. This longer length, paired with the right point, will give you an arrow that is lighter than a shorter shaft with a heavier point.

[aaron]

As for the fear of overdraw- if the bow is built for her draw, she probably won't overdraw it as long as she uses good form. Someone else could easily overdraw it, so you make sure she never lets anyone else draw her bow.