question about crepe myrtle

[alwayslookin]

So I came across some crepe myrtle a while back and so far I'm really liking it. Question I have is do any of you have any experience with doing corrections with dry heat with it? I need to do a little string alignment and the one tip has a bit of deflex the deflex I'm not too worried about but the string is way off center. I would like to use dry heat if possible. I have a couple small pieces I can practice on in case no one has no experience with it.

[Pat B]

I've not tried crepe myrtle but I'd give it a try. Use veg oil on it and lay the heat to it. The oil will keep from scorching, help the wood hold heat longer and distribute the heat better. IMO

[sleek]

I tried it once and immediately decided I may as well do something else with my time. Id love to see pics and know the stats.

[Limbit]

Crepe myrtle has been shown to be a good bow wood, the grain is tight and the fibers hold to themself very well meaning it probably won't lift a splinter. I'm not sure about it taking set or not. I just planed down several trees into boards yesterday here in Taiwan and was impressed with it. My guess is, if the wood is plenty dry, it will do fine with a heat bend assuming you are using a heat gun. I wouldn't use a tourch on it if you aren't certain about its ability to accept the heat....which you aren't. I test bended several thinner branches and you could practically bend them in a circle before they split. Of course they were wet and mostly sap wood, but that is still a good indicator the wood has potential. The heat should take care of any set problems (if there are any), just take it slow and give it time to rehydrate after heating. Does your wood have any heartwood contrast? The trees I felled have a really cool olive heartwood. Be careful storing it as well, it tends to rot easily and bugs LOVE it.

[alwayslookin]

Sleek- can you explain your answer more? I tried heating it and didn't like it or just didn't like the wood in gerneral.
Limbit- thanks for the response yes i like it so or so far very strong and set doesn't seem to be a issue do far. Mine does not have any heart wood though all sapwood.

[sleek]

Best of my memory from 3 maybe 4 years ago.... wet noodle with a brittle back. I didnt try heat though and the staves werent fully cured. If you are successful id like to see it.

[PEARL DRUMS]

There have been dozens of successful CM bows posted here. Some where very challenged and still looked good to me. Ken75 made about 20-30 in a year if memory serves me. I have a piece I need to get after. Its hard and feels like good wood to my hands.

[sleek]

Musta been just my bad experience and lack off at that point. Good to know.

[alwayslookin]

Ya are you sure it was crepe? That doesn't sound anything like the stuff I have it is very tension strong very elastic and springs right back to flat. I haven't finished one so maybe I will be proved wrong but will post it when done.

[Pat B]

A guy named Thimo made quite a few bows with CW. Most of them were 90# to 100#+ If I remember correctly. He hasn't been on here in the last few years but I think He frequented PP though.

[sleek]

Thimo, yeah hes a pp guy, and a good fellow from what I gather.

So, apparently my post about cm contained traces of nuts. Pay me no mind.

[alwayslookin]

Haha thanks guys Ya Ken and thimo are the ones that gave me the hair to try it out. I'm not blessed with yew and Osage like most of you lucky chaps so I gotta work with what I got for now. I seen where thimo said it steams well but can't find any info on bending with heat gun on oil. I'll just have to try it out and see. Let you guys know what happens.