spine considerations shooting around self bow handle

[Pappy]

If you are a right handed shooter , that looks a little stiff to me, add more weight or scrape a bit off mid 2/3 of the shaft, don't take much. Nice looking arrow by the way, I always build my shoot shafts 1 at a time anyway, like building bow, all wood is a little different.
 Pappy

[E. Jensen]

I've also been having trouble with this.  I want nice arrows for my 55# mulberry, so I made an arrow spined 35, 40, 45, and 50.  30" with 125gn points.  They all shoot straight yet all still make contact with the bow.

[Tuomo]

Rise your brace height - a very simple solution if the arrow hits to the handle. Minimum brace heigth (from belly side of grip) is about 15 cm (6") - the more the better.

And, try stiffer arrows. I do not understand why primitive archers likes so weak arrows (old rule, 5-10# below draw weight), because stiff arrow functions better.

[Sockrablur]

There was no change in impact with 145gr fp from 125gr. So today I will try 160gr and then 190 gr and see what happens.

Tuomo... I understand your point sir. What I am trying to do is learn how to manipulate an arrow, to tune it to fly straight and hit in a manner that it transfers as much energy as possible into penetration in an animals chest cavity. My interests by far lie in hunting deer, but this process is like a puzzle to me and I have taken an interest in it. The information seems a little daunting at times but I appreciate it's merit, challenge, and old world craftsmanship feel I get as the arrow shafting I cut, dried, straightened, scraped, and tuned leaves the bow. I am enchanted

At this point ,if by changing point weight, if I determine the arrow is stiff I would rework the start and weaken it to reduce the required fp weight and overall arrow weight. Total weight with 145 gr fp was 662gr...

[Sockrablur]

Any one want to throw "introductory" nock height into the mix?





Let me start with what I think I know from reading much smarter folks than me and please correct me as needed. I think my knock height in the photo is set at 5/8. That means to me the bottom of the nock is 5/8 above zero, that 90 deg line from top of arrow rest to string. It's a little frustrating because everyone seems to measure differently but I believe anyway you measure matters less than being consistent in how you do it. Is there a right or standard way to measure nock height?

So I guess I'm looking for is an acceptable beginning to adjusting/tuning my knock height. I don't want to be making an obvious mistake out of ignorance. Do I need to learn how to shoot through paper and read the nock tear or bare shaft tune? is there an easier way or should I jump in?

I chose 5/8 because lots of people seem to settle there. Lately I've noticed how my nocked arrow seems pointed down hill. It would seem level is better but I assume that creates arrow rest deflection issues??

As always thanks for your thoughts and time guys!

[Pat B]

My initial nock setting is about 3/8" above horizontal but I nock on top of the nock point.
 Everyone is a little different; each bow and shooter has a sweet spot. Its up to you to find out where it works best for you.

[Sockrablur]

That's interesting Pat. I assume shooting split bolts the arrow down then. I think i read howard hill nocked an arrow like this as well. He felt it was a more fluid motion drawing an arrow out of the quiver, nocking the arrow and coming to draw. I could be wrong but interesting.

So I tried 160 &190gr fp with no change in impact. So I think i am going to make a Sherwood shaft and a cane shaft with the steel field points just to see if I can get them to react or move point of impact with changes in point weight.

[bow101]

Your grouping looks good how far is the target Sockrablur..?

[Pat B]

Nice looking bow you have there! 

[Sockrablur]

10-15 yards away. I thought I would be able to manipulate arrow impact to the right by adding tip weight. I was unable to.
I'm now building a cane arrow and a purchased Doug fir arrow to see if they respond differently. I have detailed notes from my dogwood & wild rose arrow building last year and have learned a lot, I see things I could have done better, things I just didn't know or understand. Learning as I go : )

[Sockrablur]

Ha ha... Yes Sir Pat! All I have shot since she showed up in the mail. Thank You 

[Chief RID]

A lot of info here. I will monitor.

[bubbles]

You would probably notice more drastic changes with a bareshaft when you make changes. Fletchings have a habit of correcting things, especially with field points.