guess i should have asked sooner

[jayman448]

is there anything i need to watch for while making an edge ring ash board bow. the ring lines run straight and its already ready for the long string on one limb. any tips or special procedures or considerations?

[Del the cat]

The hard thing is to try and watch the bend and the poundage on the scale at the same time.
Never pull over target weight... but DO pull to full target weight (but not in a rush, first time up on the tiller).
BUT never pull past the point where you can see the tiller isn't even.
I'm sure we've all been caught out watching the scale and missing the bend... or watching the draw length... you need three independent eyes!
That's why I often video it on the tiller. I can then study it at my leisure without holding the bow at full poundage.
Don't worry about applying full poundage on a long string, it is less than full poundage really because the bow isn't braced and the string angles are different.
When in doubt stop and have a cup of tea/coffee/whatever
Del

[WillS]

Edge ring ash is a finicky beast.  Any tiny pins that were present (which will be on the sides if you're using edge ring) will give you instant chrysals across the belly or crack the back. 

The weight will be higher than expected for a given dimension as it stores more energy I think.  I've made ash bows before using the same stave, one edge ring and one the usual way.  Same dimensions, the edge ring was about 30 pounds heavier.

Oh, and it may try and bend sideways on you.  That's always fun.  Usual way round doesn't.

[half eye]

Will, gave good advise, the only thing I would add is to "round over your edges" especially on the back, Also make sure to keep the belly plan nice and flat untill you get her bending well.
rich

[jayman448]

Guess its just time to shave and pray then xD

Wills: your talking about pin knots?

[WillS]

Yeah pin knots that are so tiny you almost can't see them.  Not the pins you see through the bark.

Here's what I'm talking about - this bow wasn't tillered very well which is why it failed, but it was full of these miniscule pin knots.  It was edge grain like yours, and about 100# at 32", and every single pin knot developed a large compression fracture / chrysal right where the pins started, and went 20mm deep and straight across the belly.  Bad news!

[George Tsoukalas]

No knots are allowed on any board. The board will probably break there.
Also, edge ringed is another term for 1/4 sawn. Not sure why the terminology that was used for years was changed but any, 1/4 sawn must be straibht grained on the edge with no run offs or it will break.
Jawge

[jayman448]

good thing she is clear as water then. would it have failed if it was something more reasonable (like 45 lbs? id snap in half if i tried to shoot a war bow!)

[George Tsoukalas]

I had a hickory board bow fail because of a knot that I also missed. That's the way it goes. Jawge

[mikekeswick]

Two words.........Rawhide backing!
1/4 sawn boards are deceptively hard to read. Straight lines on EVERY face are a prerequisite for an unbacked bow.

[WillS]

Jayman, the problem with ash at any poundage is that when it fails it doesn't break like most woods.  It develops bad chrysals in weak areas (whether it's the tiller that caused it or pins, knots etc) and just folds up eventually.  You end up with huge set in those areas, it gets slow and soggy to shoot and just ends up nasty all over.

45lbs is still plenty heavy enough to develop chrysals, so take your time, be super gentle on the tiller and really burn that old saying into your head "once you see a problem, never pull the bow further"

[jayman448]

Well we will see how it goes. Ive not taken it past floor tiller yet. Been busy the last few days. Anyone else agree that it will need some backing?