Best Big Game Broadhead Knapping Material?

[PAHunter]

What knapping material is the best for making big game arrow broadheads?

I have a pretty good primitive hunting setup besides broadheads.  Now I'm trying to focus on building effective whitetail (for now) hunting points.  My first question is what type of material to use for them.  For now I'm just practicing with bottle bottoms and whatever else I can get my hands on.  But I'd like to acquire some good/optimal material for the hunting points.  I would guess some factors would be knapability (is that even a word?), sharpness of finished head, availability of material, and durability. 

Bonus questions:   
* My goal would be perhaps 1'' by 2'' heads or so.  What size piece would you ideally start with to produce an end piece of that size?
* Is there a good place go get this material online or anywhere around Pittsburgh?

I appreciate any advice!

PS: Bob and Bill invite me over to break some rocks, or common down my way! 

[Outbackbob48]

Rob, the quick answer is super sharp ones are best Now for all the theory and such. You know Pappy killed a deer with a Aunt Jemmia bottle point, I killed a deer with a really crude keokuk point. I personally like to use good Texas flint, not real hard to work but seems real durable. Rhyolites are super durable but can be diffucult to work, All will work if sharp. I like a pc about fist size or a little smaller to start with or a nice shaped spall will save some thinning. I also like my point narrow and long like a 3 to 1 ratio, you do know in Pa. Minumum width is 7/8" and maxium length is 3"I also like the Ishi style point. Lots of good material, Here is my dream point, a beautiful pc of colored coral cooked to perfection and the stuff gets razor sharp plus. Don't know if we are allowed to say Rock dealers on here but PM me and I will give ya some leads on some good stone, as far as collecting rock around Pittsburgh good luck. Bob

[aaron]

I prefer obsidian because I think it gets sharper than flint, etc, but anything will work if its sharp. Sharpness and excellent arrow flight are important. I dont make em too thin, about as thick as the shaft.  Starting size depends somewhat on your skill, but I start with flat spalls about 2x4 inches or more and 3/4 thick or more.

[HickoryBill]

Hey Rob. When Ya want to get together? We need to drag Bob outta that frozen wasteland up there and break some rock with us..To answer your question...I killed a nice doe with a point I made from some blue glass I got from Bob...Did I ever give ya any of that Carrera glass I had? It was grey or white. Makes nice points and I got a lot of it..Let me know and I'll hook ya up...

[PAHunter]

@aaron I'm really tempted to get obsidian but I worry it's too fragile for me.  Stuff I have tends to gets bumped or dropped.      I'd prefer a stone that don't shatter if I bump it off a tree.  Have you had any issues with that?
@Bob thanks bud, PM sent.  I'm liking the sound of Texas flint!
@Bill - I might be in Clarion next weekend.  I'll be coming up more often now that the weather is breaking.  We're having a bunch of pigs butchered now so I'll be up in a few weeks also to pick that up.  Ya I still have some of that stuff!  I made the point below out of it.  Beautiful stuff.  I was guessing it's a bit fragile for actual hunting point though.

[aaron]

I have not had issues with obsidian breaking during use. I keep my arrows in a quiver with the heads protected until I am ready to shoot. On the odd occasion where I may have a arrow out while walking, I am very aware of the head because I know that it could kill me, or cut the string ,so I don't let it bump anything. As for dropping it, it's possible, but I try to be careful always.  If you shoot a stone tipped arrow, you have to accept that it will break or at least be dulled- I believe this would be true of any stone point.

[PAHunter]

I've had the additional recommendations below:
* Texas chert. Both Pedernales and Georgetown chert
* Get a mixed variety of stone to work with
* Rock that is right in the middle when it comes to workability and strength would be dacite and novaculite

[vinemaplebows]

Got lots of Obsidian and Dacite, much prefer Dacite as a hunting point, much more durable.

[Wolf Watcher]

PA:  The following is my opinion so you can take it for what its worth!  I have killed moose, elk, mule deer, and caribou with obsidian points.  They are easy to make if you have extra blood to donate to the process.  Having said that I can tell you that good quality agates and jaspers make excellent hunting points.  The sheepeater Indians made gem quality points from them, as well as, the Indians from Oregon where obsidian is easily obtained.  Try some of Eddie's coral if you want a sharp and fine working material.  The Texas cherts make fine hunting points and the last bear I shot was with one of those points.  I also think that the weight, shape, and cutting edge you need to think about depends on the animal you are hunting and the weight of arrow and bow you are using.  I know you are talking white tails, but an example of design to match the animal is the serrated edges that the plains Indians made to shoot the wire haired antelope.  So my recommendation for materials is most any Good Quality stone will work just fine.  Back when I was learning to make hunting points I can tell you that I managed to harvest some deer and elk with some butt ugly points.  Joe

[crooketarrow]

  I've killed 5 bucks 2 does and 3 gobblers only one buck was osidian. The rest was with TEXAS CHERT.  The 2 doe's my first knapped kill was a 5 yard doe shot with one of my first glass heads. the other was a stone tip out of a rock I found (limestone).

  Texas chert supper hard stays sparp,shot through a shoulder and brisket of a bedded buck hunting windy day in a corn field. Next sping killed a 3 year old gobbler same tip. Lost it the next buck season.

The other 4 shots 3 of those pass through rib cages hitting ribs along the way. I did break a osidian on a nice 4 year 10 point ,old through hitting far upper leg bone might have been bottom of the shoulder. breaking it in half.
 
  Either way I never found him.
 
  I've shot 2 does both with lime stone heads. US. don't have real flint. You have to go far NE. above CANDA or UK. Real flints like osidian but harded but chip[s like butter. I got mine for SCANNAVIA.
 
 But lots of closer rock will

[PAHunter]

Great info!  I ordered a box of TX Flint spalls to play with.  I also bought a box of chert flakes by accident; I intended to get obsidian but must have selected the wrong option.     Anything I need to know about this chert stuff?  thanks!

[JackCrafty]

Raw TX chert can be very steppy.  Set up good platforms and use lots of force.