New guy saying Hello

[alwayslookin]

I wanna say its high 20s low 30s at 28. Way under what I want . After I reflexed  it with heat it ended up with deflex again but only half of its original deflex. I will get a unbraced  pic when I get home.

[alwayslookin]

What about flipping the tips? What are the benefits of that at this point?

[Parnell]

Hmmmm.  Honestly?  As said before, concentrate on doing everything you can to learn from the tillering experience and use it for your next attempt!  I know it isn't what you want to hear, butif you are out to your full draw the window is closing. 

If it were mine I'd pike itand flip the tips and maximize the learning experience.  My 2 cents.

[alwayslookin]

I agree I'm trying to learn all I can on this bow so my next will be that much better. To flip the tips I'm guessing I need to make a caul  or can it be done by hand? Is steam the preferred  method for this?

[Parnell]

It would be a good experience for you to build a caul.  Check out the how to's and build alongs for ideas...

You don't need much to "flip the tips", ie., you aren't bending in static recurves...just some bend.

Make sure the wood is sanded very smooth before doing the work.  Typically, people leave the ends much too thick when doing this, in my opinion.  I always did.

Let me know...

[alwayslookin]

Can't seem to find a caul for flipping the tips most seem to be statics or a lot more flip than I need. Might just have to wing it. Can I use dry heat instead of steam since I'm not putting a lot of bend in

[Parnell]

You really can just grab a piece of 2x4 and create a curve that the back of the bow will follow.  Sand the caul smooth, also so it doesn't ding your back.  Consider cutting a rag to pad the form. 
You can definitely use dry heat.  Just get your Crisco out and coat the end, bring the temperature up slow and steady so it's deep heat and let the bend gradually and clamp.  I'm thinking something along the lines of 30-40 degrees to start with the radius of the curve being around 4-5" out from the nock.

Something like that...

Hey, by the way, you should try to think of heading up to the Silver Springs knapp-in in February.  You'll meet some of your FL crew.

[alwayslookin]

OK I'll use that next time I already did it tonight kind of jerry rigged though. I used maybe to fast of heat though got some cracks on the belly in the bend. I was just kind of testing the limits to see what would work and what wouldn't since it was already so low under weight. It turned into my trial \ Frankenstein bow. Haha

[Parnell]

Get that bow to shoot!  It's a crusade at this point...

[alwayslookin]

I'm I am going to try today had to let it rehydrate. I think I need to wrap the areas where I put the bends in. It got some cracks because I think I didn't heat it long enough. I super glued them but was thinking about wrapping some cordage in that area for some extra protection. Should I use titebond on the wraps or super glue?  What do you think steve?

[Parnell]

You got the idea, fill 'em in and wrap 'em if you think they need the wrap.  This is also why people will put in recurves/reflex early on in the process - just after ground tiller when the wood is still a little thicker.  Usually the crack can be sanded out .  Post a picture of the cracks and of your tips.  Often they are left too thick, which is another reason why those cracks may have appeared in the first place.  Are you able to sand down the thickness and get them out? 

[alwayslookin]

No its too thin to sand out I would comprise it. I can post a picture later today hopefully or tomorrow.  Should I use super glue or titebond?

[Parnell]

Always cyanoacrylate for that type of thing.

[alwayslookin]

Always cyanoacrylate for that type of thing.

I had too look that up 

[Parnell]

 . All part of the learning process.