Band saw help

[JoJoDapyro]

I recently bought a used. 12 inch Craftsman band saw. I had an issue with blade tracking in the beginning, but with some internet search found how to properly adjust that. The blade that it came with was a 1/4 inch blade. I ran it maybe 20 minutes before it broke at the weld. The first blade breaking was more than likely user error. I bought a new blade and have used it for maybe 4 hours total before it too broke. This blade was a 1/2 blade, but it didn't break at the weld, and it broke while cutting straight through 1 inch of purple heart. The only thing I have done to the saw is replace the blade, adjust the wheel camber to fix the blade tracking, and replace the cooling blocks with an after market set (made for my saw). The saw runs a bit rough (slight vibration), but seems to smooth out when used for a longer period of time. Does anyone have an idea of what may be causing the vibration, or more importantly what is the reason that the blades don't seem to be lasting that long? Thanks in advance.

[Aaron H]

Choosing the correct bandsaw blade is very important to how well your bandsaw will perform. I'm not saying you didn't choose the correct one, but this may help.

Good luck


http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/how_to_choose.html

[JoJoDapyro]

HAHA  any info on how to choose a proper band saw blade? I'm new in this area, as well as lots of others.

[Del the cat]

How's the blade tension?
With the power disconnected turn the top wheel by hand, is it smooth without any rubbing anywhere? Ideally the blade shouldn't be touching any of the guides or bearings when it's free running.
Check the rubber tyres (tires?) on the wheels for any embedded crud.
Basically strip the whole thing down and reassemble and adjust it all correctly, checking all alignment and belt tension.
They need a fair bit of maintenance to keep running nicely. Mine often ends up running rough and needs a quick overhaul.
Time spent now getting familiar with it will be a sound investment. There is tons of stuff online .
Del

[JoJoDapyro]

I'll run through it tonight Del. The saw was easy to rotate while blade tension was set before. The top wheel when spun by hand will spin for quite some time without the blade on. I am also going to check the belts from the motor to the saw. Has anyone tried the aftermarket urethane V belts? They are kind of expensive, so before I jump I wanted to know. New Tires are about $45 so that doesn't seem to be an issue if needed. 

[DC]

It's not something as simple as feeding the wood to fast? I've heard that Purple Heart is tough stuff.

[Aaron H]

I included a link in my last post that may help you narrow down a blade that will fit your needs.

[JoJoDapyro]

No, Tyke was running it slower than I would. Just kind of strange that it did break. I gave him a hard time and told him not to cut a radius so fast, he held up the wood and showed me he was cutting straight. I have a few Ideas i'll try tonight.

Thanks Falcon. I haven't been making tight radius cuts, so I believe the 1/2 blade was correct for the application. I believe I have narrowed the vibration down, but will see when I get a new blade tonight.

[Aaron H]

Here is another good guide to bandsaw blade selection

[Stringman]

I had a lot of trouble with my tires coming off track. Eventually, I used an adhesive to keep them in place and havent had any problem since.