osage stave advice needed

[chamookman]

Jeff - Before bending, always round the corners (back & belly) of the stave. Bob

[IdahoMatt]

Jeff it looks like it's only bending in the middle.  Try and get the outers bending more, don't touch the handle for now.

[Pat B]

Don't mess with the middle 1/3 like Matt said. The left limb is stiffer so work on it first, exercise it and check again.

[jeffp51]

How about now?  To me, I think the right side is still stronger, but the curve looks better. The outer limbs need a little more bend, but maybe also the middle third on the right.  Getting close to my target draw and weight of 55#.  If I have to go less for a good tiller, I will, but I hope I won't have to.  I also want to recurve/flip the tips some too.

[lebhuntfish]

The tiller looks fairly decent to me,  the right limb could us a few scrapes.  But if you are planning on flipping the tips I would do it  now.  Bending the tips back will put more stress on the limbs. It could and probably will change the tiller also. It may also increase the draw weight as well.  This may be debatable but has been my experience yet a little limited compared to some on here. JMHO Patrick

How close to your draw length and weight are you? 

[jeffp51]

I pulled it to around 45-50 pounds at 26 inches, and I would like 50-55# at my draw of 29".  I would like to be able to tell you more exactly, but I have been trying not to hold it flexed for too long How much of the tip is best to bend?  I was thinking the final 6-8 inches with a pretty mild curve--nothing super sharp, and not static, I think.  the nocks are 62 inches apart, and the handle is bending.  I have left the tips just a little wide at the moment because I have heard that is safer for bending--but once it is close to the final shape, I will narrow them a bit and add overlays.

  I plan to do it with steam.  Where I live is pretty dry, and from what others in this area seem to be experiencing, I think it would be best.  All opinions are welcome, and have been very helpful so far.  Really my goal is to get a durable, nice looking bow out of the process.  Any draw weight from 45-55 would be great, I think, and unless something goes horribly wrong at this point, should be obtainable.

Thanks

Jeff

[TimBo]

I would carefully get the RH middle third or so working more, then start narrowing the tips until they just slightly work, assuming you still are within your target weight range.  Personally I wouldn't mess with bending the tips unless the weight comes in low.  Osage shouldn't need overlays, but they do look cool if you want to add them.  I would vote for keeping everything simple and getting a bit fancier on the next one, since you are so close to a good bow at this point.  Good luck!

[lebhuntfish]

Jeff I just re-read your post. Me personally I would use a heat gun with oil brushed on the section you are trying to bend. I have used steam once and really didn't like what it done to the wood and since you are getting close to your finished tiller I personally think that the heat gun would be safer. Hold the heat about 6in from the wood where you add the oil to (I use cooking oil) and keep it moving when it's too hot to touch for more than a second then its ready to slowly clamp into position.  Let it cool for about an hour or until it's completely cool to the touch. Osage reacts well to heat bending this way even in a dryer climate. Check out boarrior bows on YouTube and Clay Hayes. You will be able to see a good demonstration  of both types of bending including some straightening and tiller advice as well. After you get your tips bent let is rest over night just to be safe. And also check your string alignment to make sure your bend is straight and your tips are still in alignment. When you are ready to check your tiller again be sure to exercise the limbs several times because your new tip angle will change  where the stress is on the working portions of each limb. It's also important  to exercise your stave every time after a scraping session before drawing it to your previous lengths.

After your done bending,  don't expect to be able to draw it to the 26in mark that you are currently at.
I know that's a lot of info but you are in a critical part of the tillering process and those are things where I have screwed up on myself before. Just take it slow and you will get it right for you. I think you should be able to get your draw weight your aiming for as long as you take your time and don't rush it.  This is just my thought and it is open for debate.  Can't wait to see your results!  Post some pics after you get the tips bent and all of us can help on the tiller again. Good luck, Patrick.


One thing I don't think was mentioned  is to make sure your edges are rounded nicely as well. 

[Pat B]

Work a little towards the outer limb on both. 

[jeffp51]

Thanks for the pointers one and all.  This is almost turning into a newbie build along.  I decided to take Lebhuntfish's advice and use dry heat--I figured if it worked in Vegas for boarrior bows (I had already watched that video multiple times, thank you) then it ought to work in Utah too. one limb is on the form right now cooling off.

[lebhuntfish]

Cool, can't wait to see the results! Patrick

[jeffp51]

the bending went well, I think. the only concern is a couple of hairline cracks appeared on the back.  they are running with the grain, and don't look to be running off at all. I have superglued them already, and I probably will a few more times before I try to tiller again.    All I will likely do with it for a day or two is leave it in a bathroom during shower time and see if it needs to rehidrate.  I probably need to try one more time to remove some twist, which is more obvious now with the bent tips. A couple of pics--

[Blaflair2]

Fill em with super glue, the tips aren't bending are they?

[lebhuntfish]

+1

Looks good,  I love the profile!

[Blaflair2]

Also I wouldn't leave it in the bathroom, it will take on more moisture than ud like. Just leave it alone for a day or two and it will be at equilibrium with the RH