who's working on composite horn bows?

[DC]

Thank you

[duke3192]

Also as the form reflexs when the sinew is drying the horn pieces develop gaps that need to be filled.

[Tc]

Well, not exactly . That part of the bow does not move neither during seasoning nor shooting. Besides this little bone (the Turkish name is celik) is glued before seasoning so if the horns moved there, the bow would develop a gap with the celik glued in place....

[duke3192]

Thank you Tc, I got my information from a video on composite bow building, I will just have try and see what happens with different types of composites.

[Lukasz Nawalny]

I have celik theory and I check it in practice. I glue celik after tillering. When we have bows glued in big reflex horns on belly have tendency to little movements in tillering proces. When we dont have space between horns it make big tear away forces in horn/wood gluing, so I have seen a lot of delaminations in handle area. When I glue bow in C reflex I have always space between horns and I glue celik last

[Tc]

Different thoughts, different ways, one common goal: working hornbow
I like your bows Lukasz, especially the schythians.... It is good to see you here!

[Parnell]

I've been grilling the Karpowicz book for about a month and feel like I'm about ready to start a Turkish bow.

Anybody want to weigh in on what core wood to start with and type?  I've found hard maple boards from a dealer locally but he unsure of how they have been dried.  In the reading I'm still questioning the grain orientation for a board with the sal and siyah (kasan).  Am I looking to reduce a stave to my wanted dimensions with the bark side of the stave "towards the belly"? 

I'm curious about trying to dig up a pipe clean ironwood or hard maple stave from members that is relatively green and allowing for several months of curing on a form.


Anybody want to weight in on "best choice" for first timers core components?

Thanks,

Stephen

[RBLusthaus]

I am in the same boat as you, and after reading the book now what seems like 20 times, I have begun putting together a core.  I am using hard maple and am staying with the books advice - - bark side is the belly.  I tried bending the blanks when they were 3/4 in thick to no avail.  I have had some success with them when they are 1/2 in thick, so I will add on a piece for the nocks later.  I have a few limbs drying as we speak.  I did get a little lifting of splinters during the bend at the kasan / tip apex, but the areas will be whittled down later so all seems good.  I am unsure if the wood I am using has been kiln or air dried, but based on my results, I assume kiln.  I got better results by soaking the blanks in a bucket for a few days before the bend.  No doubt the bend would be better and easier if the wood were green or air dried. 

Question for you - - when I add the piece on the tip to bring the nock area to sufficient thickness, do you think I should add it on the back or the belly side of the the tip?  I have my own thoughts (back side) and was wondering what yours are?  Other then the book stating that the extra could be added to fill out the tip at the nocks, it does not say on which side to add it, and since I was unable to bend the full 3/4 inch blank, I will be adding . . . .   Russ.

[Parnell]

From the reading and picture, my impression was also the back...

Thanks for your thought Russ.

[}|{opukc]

Hi..
Some of mine, also some future project.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,43271.0.html





cheers George

[}|{opukc]

authentic



 G.

[james parker]

                                       
awesome









                                           







         

[Lukasz Nawalny]

My new target bow, only 36 lb , 184 fps 9 gpp, range well over 200 meters. I was realy suprised this speed, birch core and sijah

[mullet]

Wow! I'd love to have one shooting that fast at such a light weight.

[Lukasz Nawalny]

Turkish playground