?? for bend in the handle guru's

[Fred Arnold]

I've made a couple partial bend in the handle bows but now looking at a nice osage stave that will likely only give me 58" NTN. Theoretically I'm thinking this should give me a bow that will draw to my full 28" draw if I can tiller it to bend through the handle section. Am I assuming too much? Is there a formula with a safety factor built in that will work for most osage?

[Fred Arnold]

One more question. Since its next to impossible to use a tillering gizmo while the bow is drawn on the tree, is it guess work on tillering until you can get a string on it and then check your bend in the handle? My floor tillering skills are still somewhat suspect.

[JonW]

Fred are you doing a full width or narrowed handle? Full width will not require the thickness that a narrowed handle needs. Not much difference in execution or difficulty, just something to consider. I try to get my last inch or so of draw from the handle bending. You can use your gizmo while tillering on the tree and then work on it by drawing the bow for the last bit.

58" is plenty for a 28" draw

[Newindian]

28" is easily achievable. I don't use a gizmo so I can't really comment on how it affects tillering I've just always watched the limbs bend. Just be sure to only try to get the handle bending late in tillering.

[PEARL DRUMS]

These guys said it already. I usually leave the handle stiff until Im a few inches and about #5-8 shy of my target. Then do the rest all in the handle area Like Jon and NI mentioned. Don't over think it Fred. Its far and away the easiest style to tiller. I don't use a gizmo either, cant comment there. Try taking a 10-12" 1 x 2 and standing it up on the handle to hold the bow drawn. Then check the tiller while you hold it up. Holding a bow at anything over 15-18" for more than second or two isn't good, IMHO.

[PatM]

There is a great example of a stiff handled static of that length and draw on this forum.
 I think sometimes people are too cautious as to what the wood can actually take.

[SLIMBOB]

I agree. I have a 58" stiff handle Osage. 5" handle and 1" fades. 50+ @ 27". Took some set yes, but still shoots remarkably well after lots of years. Bendy at that length no sweat. +1 Pearl on the stick.

[simson]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,47603.0.html

[Fred Arnold]

Jon, I'm thinking narrow handle, not by much but enough to allow me a slightly higher spine shaft.
I have a medium hand and the wider grips haven't been comfortable for my hold.

Newindian, my eyes don't convert proper tiller very well so I either use the gizmo and a credit card closer toward the tips. I'd be lost without the crutch.

PD, never thought about the 1 x 2. Almost like a tiller stick which I've never used. I probably draw and hold the damned things too long and that's why I've had so much problem with set.

PatM, I've seen a multitude of shorter bows that reach good draw lengths yet somehow  mine keep taking more set than I desire. There are a multitude of reasons for that only one of which is limb length. 

SLIMBOB, my true draw length is 28.5 on longbows and 29" on most recurves. These long monkey arms on a short frame are actually a blessing when it comes to getting performance out of a bow but it makes drawing short bows a problem, the biggest being finger pinch and stacking.

simson, some day I'm going to learn to stretch the limit like you always seem to do on every piece of wood I've seen you work on. Now if I could make a bow like that I wouldn't be asking all these questions

Thank you for your input. I really am getting better at this thanks to all of you guys helping out.

Fred