The Showdown

[zenart]

  Clint, that was a split off the stave you sent me last week. I have some western larch arrows spined at 80#, should be about right with a 75 grain broadhead and the arrow pass about 1/2" away from center.

Guess what tree that was from......the monster osage!  That is just to cool.  I'm glad you turned it into a monster bow.

I knew it!! Too cool Clint.  And very soon, (in the groveling sequel to this Master display) I hope to post my first stave bow, also made from 'The Monster Osage'. The 'sister' to Badger's Monster is now at floor tiller. Steve is guiding me all along the way. She will be 'Mini-Monster', 69" shooting for 50-55#. Needless to say, I feel pretty dang confident in the wood AND the Teacher. 

[stickbender]

     Ok, thank God, this done with, and proven.  And not so much as a Nyah, N'yah, N'yah, in your face, either.   Now..... lets see the "MAN" that is going to shoot this thing!   And then get back to the boring, beautiful bows!   
I had to skip from the teens, to page 26, and then go backwards, to see what was progressing.

                                                                              Wayne

[mikekeswick]

Whitewood eh........keep yours eyes peeled 

[Del the cat]

I'll always take my hat off to those who come up with the goods .
You have nothing to prove to anyone, so I'd say go ahead and tiller it down a tad to suit your draw weight/length and see how far you can ping out an arrow.
Prob' with flight shooting is you can't see it on video, heck it's hard enough trying to watch an arrow go when you are shooting it yourself!
Del
(can I put my hat back on now?)

[Pappy]

Congrats Steve,very well done.
   Pappy

[4dog]

alls well that ends well...and adb...good of you to stand by the wager and offer the bow...badger......better of you to build that puppy and decline the bow...nice work right there!!!!

[Marc St Louis]

Steve made this bow out of Osage but any decent bow wood will do the same thing.  The trick is not so much in the wood but in the man doing the tillering.

Now Pat, you need to up the scale a bit.  Make that Elm bow a 120#  .  I know it can be done

P.S.  Now we can lay this short bow low draw-weight dog to rest, for those who didn't know any better that is

[Gordon]

Steve, you're my hero.

[blackhawk]

video reminded me of Ryoons Buckthorn war bow tearing Martys pully out of the floor at Martyjam 2013!

+1...I remember that,n was gonna say the same thing...yikes!!!

Not only did it survive(for now anyways.. lol),what's more impressive is that it withstood a less than optimum tiller....

Thanks for doing this Steve.....I was hoping I didn't have too...I just don't have the time right now,or will have the time to make anything for awhile for that matter

[IdahoMatt]

Great job Steve.  Pucker moment for sure well done

[Badger]

  Not being humble here but it does show that anyone with a little experience could have made it. I think I used a good design for that bow but the tiller was off, I am curious how much I can get out of it with a corrected tiller. It should hit 28" pretty easy once corrected. Anything over 90# will be fine.

[Del the cat]

Woo, if you get that to 90# at 28" I'll bet that will spit a flight arrow a looooooooooooooong way.
Del

[bubbles]

Anybody with a little experience, a reinforced tiller tree and a bow press!

[nakedfeet]

Badger,,You picked up this gauntlet with the air and grace of a true master. Sterling effort cant wait to see someone shoot this thing.
My guess is the arrow just atomises upon loose and upsets the results of some far flung experiment at CERN.

Exactly! Very modestly done. "Anyway, that's it!" -- from the video.

Awesome. Can't wait to see someone shoot it!

[Badger]

  The hardest part about a bow like this is working outside my comfort zone. At 72" no problem. Even if I am working on a 50# bow with a design outside my comfort zone I have to be real careful. Knowing when to brace is the key. I often cut this real close, sometimes too close with no room for adjustment as is the cae with this bow. What I use for a guide in knowing when to brace is real simple. I treat a bow on the long string just like I do a bow fully braced. I find out how much it gains per inch of draw and know from experience if it is drawing 80#@20" on a long string it will still weigh about 80# @20" when braced and drawn that far. There is one factor that has to be closely monitored, if the design is good and the wood is not breaking down much we won't loose much weight from added compression as we draw the bow further. In an unfamiliar design we don't know for sure how much weight we are going to loose from compression so it is best to be on the safe side and brace the bow where it projects out to be about 15# heavier than we want. This particular bow didn't loose much but I had no way of knowing for sure so I braced it a tad early thinking I may not have room for tiller adjustment and still make weight. In hind sight I could have made a bit more adjustments but didn't want to take a chance.