Advise needed - straightening bamboo arrows

[RT]

Hi, I have been trying to straighten some bamboo arrows. Heated them first,then straighten them.
After I am done, they look very straight but after laying them to rest for 30 mins. They don't look as straight as before.

Can some one please share with me some tricks and technic how to keep them straight? Any help appreciated. ........RT

[Pat B]

Start by straightening either the nodes first or the internodes but get the big bends straightened first. Once you straighten that one big bend lay the shaft on a flat surface to cool, pick up another shaft and heat the big bend in it. Work through your shafts then start on the next set of bends. If you start with the nodes, do all the nodes first, allow the shafts to cool completely then start on the internodes. I like to do a cane straightening over a 2 or 3 day period to insure all crooks are straight and cool. If you try to rush the process it will be hard to keep them straight.

[RT]

Hi pat, thanks for the tip, will give it a try and keep fingers cross. Thanks and god bless

[Buck67]

It takes me 2 or 3 sessions over a 2 day period to get them straight.  I use a Heat gun for stripping paint to heat the bamboo.  Don't forget to keep moving the bamboo or it will scorch.  Use a small plane to knock off the humpy parts of the nodes.

[Pat B]

I don't sand or plane the nodes. I heat then roll them on a hard surface with a smooth block of wood to compress them. I can usually get the nodes almost the same diameter as the shaft.

[nclonghunter]

I draw a straight line on my work bench with a yard stick and black medium marker. Find a section that is straight on your bamboo or shaft and lay it against the line. Whatever goes away from the line, heat and bend towards it. Rotate the shaft as you go and it will eventually be straight. Gives me a straight line to look at.

Just my way, Good Luck

[Scottski]

I don't sand or plane the nodes. I heat then roll them on a hard surface with a smooth block of wood to compress them. I can usually get the nodes almost the same diameter as the shaft.

You do this before you straighten them or after? I might try this in my next arrows.

[bowtarist]

I had always done it the way PatB said until a buddy of mine showed me a different way. He starts at one end and heats it over a #10 steel can w/ lid cut off and bricks on top spaced apart. Starts at one end and heats a section, 4-6 inchs and straightens what needs to be straightend, and moves on towards the other end. He's real particular on heating the whole shaft evenly while doing this and eyeballing down the shaft all the time. Somewhere near the other end he flips it and continues towards the end. He gets one done and starts the next. He goes back over them aftercooling and if one place needs heated, he heats the whole thing again eyeballing it all the while.  Cuts his cane a couple nodes long straightens the whole thing then uses what he wants. I think Pat's advice is more sound to start w/. This guy works slow and mostly w/ nothing more than a pocket knife to cut a notch in a shovel handle for a shaft straightener wrench. He uses charcoal under his #10 can so he can adjust the heat, and uses the slot between the bricks for the same purpose. Incredible to watch and makes a great/straight cane arrow shaft. shew, sorry about the rant, dp

[RT]

If my shafts are air dried after a month. Do i start by tempering the whole shaft 1st or I straighten 1st?

thank you

[bowtarist]

I think most guys temper last, but the fella I wrote about says the way he does it it tempers while you straighten, that;s why he is so adamant about heating the whole shaft while straightening or even re straightening.

[Pat B]

I straighten the cane shaft first, then roll the nodes then start at one end and heat while turning the shaft and move down the shaft to the other end. I like to heat it until it begins getting some color change. Be careful at the other end because the tempering process will drive whatever moisture is left out the end and it will scald you. Once this is done lay the shaft(s) on a flat surface until it is completely cool. I usually leave it until tomorrow. You may still have to do a little hand straightening but you shouldn't have to do much.

[stickbender]

     I do like pat does, but I do the inter-nodes first, and then nodes, and be careful with them, they are the weak points of the shaft.  If they are large, after all is straightened, I then  do as Pat does, and then lightly sand them down.  I use a heat gun.  After the shaft is straight, I cut in the nocks, and arrow head notch, or not if I am using an insert type of head, or slip over type.  Be sure to have the stiff side against the bow.  I lightly sand the entire shaft, and then spray on a lacquer finish. Then after that has dried, I lightly steel wool it with four 0 steel wool, and then wipe it off, and then spray on another coat of lacquer, and let that dry, and then repeat the steel wool, and then a light coat of paste wax, or you can leave it at that stage, and then fletch.  Like they said keep the shaft, or heat source moving, or you will scorch the shaft, and that will weaken it.

                                                                                Wayne

                               

[DarkSoul]

I've made a tutorial about my method of straightening Japanese arrow bamboo. You can find it HERE on PaleoPlanet.

[TRACY]

I've made a tutorial about my method of straightening Japanese arrow bamboo. You can find it HERE on PaleoPlanet.

Very nice detailed tutorial DS! I picked up a couple things along the way.

Tracy